Gulley Greenhouse

Composting 101

2012-01-27T12:38:00.000-07:00

Composting is a great way to help keep your plants and the environment healthy. Compost can do many things like reducing yard waste 50 – 75%, recycling nutrients back into the environment, keeping your plants fed with valuable nutrients, helping improve drainage, and increasing aeration of clay soil.

Composting is a process by which micro-organisms (bacteria, fungi and actinomycetes) decompose organic material. Compost is a soil amendment, not a fertilizer. You can make a fertilizer by adding compost into water and arraying for a day or so, this process creates a compost tea which can be added directly to the garden.

There are many different ways to compost matter. You can use a plastic bin, a wire or wood structure, a hole in the ground, or even a bucket of worms in your home.

FOLLOW THESE EASY STEPS FOR PROPER COMPOSTING:

—Pick level ground with well draining soil in full sun. The pile will not smell if properly layered, turned, and aerated.

—A good size container to build is 3 x 3 x 5 feet, this size will generate the amount of heat needed to properly break down organic material. Protect the top from rain, too much moisture decreases aeration. Let air circulate through the sides and remember to turn the pile once it reaches a temperature of 150º. Creating three piles is a great way to go; one of new materials, one that's composting, and one finished.

—The Carbon: Nitrogen ratio should be between 30:1 and 15:1. Layer with compost maker, organic matter and soil. Do not use a lot of shredded paper or grass clippings at once. Remember to water only enough so 2 – 3 drops of moisture can be squeezed out. Compost may destroy some weed seeds. Most kitchen waste C:N ratio is 30:1 to 40:1 and straw is 80:1. Thin layers is the key.

—Be careful when composting meat and fat as they decay slowly and attract animals.

—In 3 to 4 days temperatures may be up to 130 - 150º. When the temperature drops, turn or aerate, then mix outside areas towards the middle. When the temperature stops peaking, the compost is finished and is ready for use.

—Watering is very important. Keep the pile moist, not dry or soggy. If a constant balance of moisture is not kept, you may kill off the organisms needed.

—The pile should be ready in 1 – 2 months in the summer if maintained properly, and 6 – 12 months during other seasons.

ORGANIC MATERIALS AND COMPOSTING:

USE
Grass Clippings (in thin layers)
Broken Branches (in small pieces)
Leaves, Weeds, Vegetable Waste
Oyster Shells, Bone Meal, Wood Ash
Peanut Shells (high nitrogen), Egg Shells
Manure & Legumes (high nitrogen)
Cottonseed Meal (high nitrogen)

DO NOT USE

Diseased plants or branches(throw away)
Highly resinous wood and leaves, decay is longer --Juniper, Pine, Spruce, Arborvitae
Human/Dog/Cat feces – may transmit diseases
Grass treated with Weed & Feed (chemicals)
Large amounts of Meat or Fat

Gulley Greenhouse & Garden Center6029 S Shields Fort Collins, CO 80526970.223.GROW 800.642.8028gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.comhttp://www.gulleygreenhouse.com

A Miracle in a Pod

2012-01-19T17:08:00.001-07:00

Starting seeds yourself can be a fun yet potentially traumatic experience; if you don't arm yourself with the right knowledge before you begin. There are a few key concepts that will make the difference between strong, prolific plants and spindly, sick seedlings that don't make it to the garden.

To begin, it's best to devise your plan and gather your supplies. Not all seeds need to be started at the same time. If you plan to start many different varieties, spreading out your sowing over a couple weeks will save you from doing all the chores at once. I was amazed at how the different grow times of both cool and warm season crops allow for consecutive placement on a seed sowing schedule; once I created such a thing. Further amazing was how this sowing schedule also became a planting schedule and before I knew it I had an entire season schedule which included both indoor and direct sow seed starting, planting, maintenance and expected harvest dates. Very handy!

It can be quite an undertaking to create a decent garden calendar so like others before me, I borrowed info from more seasoned gardeners to create mine. Here are a couple helpful pages I used in creating my calendar; amongst others:

http://cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/720.pdf

http://www.cmg.colostate.edu/gardennotes/721.pdf

Once you have your plan together, you are ready to gather your supplies and get your hands dirty. Here is a list of basic supplies I recommend:

Seeds – Choose whatever looks good to you. I personally only plant heirloom and non genetically modified seeds.
Soil less Seed Starter – Garden soil can carry bugs, disease and is harder to control its' moisture. I make my own from a 50/50 mix of peat moss and sand but you can buy it as well.
Containers, seed trays or direct planting cups for fussier plants – Used containers should be washed and disinfected with a very light bleach and water solution.
Clear plastic tray covers, plastic bags or plastic wrap – Again, new or disinfected.
Labels – Plastic sticks or popsicle sticks can be used but be sure to mark with pencil or the sun will make you pen marks disappear- learned that one the hard way.
Spray bottle – to gently water your seeds and seedlings.
Lighting – It's best to give your little guys supplemental light since our days are shorter this time of year. I prefer 4' fluorescent lights which are fairly cheap and work well as long as you keep the bulbs close to the plants, usually about 4 inches or so.
Extra bottom heat – You can use a Seedling warming mat or at least place your set up somewhere it can get plenty of warmth.

Now that you have all your supplies, prepare your containers by filling them 3/4 full with seed starting mix, tapping the sides to settle it. Don't pack the mix, you want it to drain freely. Most of your seeds will need different environments for germination. Some need light, some need dark, some like lots of moisture and others don't. It's best to group your seeds to simplify giving your little miracles exactly what they need to thrive. Check your seed packets for info on what each needs and arrange your seed starting setup accordingly.

Once you have your groups together, begin sowing. Most people will sow 2 or 3 seeds per container or "cell" and latter thin the weaker seedlings out. Some seeds will need to be planted under the soil so make a little hole at the proper depth and drop in your seed. Seeds that need to be sown at only 1/4 inch under the soil can be sprinkled and then covered with a thin layer of your mix. Others need to be surface sown so roughen the soil surface, sprinkle your seeds and watch the magic happen; sometimes I actually help these exposed sprouts along by moving each one very gently so they're pointing down into the soil.

Once your seeds are sown it's time to water. This can be tricky, especially for the surface sown seeds as they tend to float, making your meticulous placement a complete wast of time. I like to use seed starting trays that come with the cell flat, a clear cover and a bottom pan that you can part fill with water and let the moisture soak in from beneath. If you don't have those just use a misting, spray bottle and go slow. At this stage you want to keep the seeds moist so check them often and keep them covered with a lid or some plastic until germination. This is the time to get your bottom heat going so germination happens quickly and you are promoting vigorous root growth. I keep the lights on 24 hours a day to help make more heat.

Once the seeds have sprouted, remove the plastic lids and set your lights to sixteen hours of light a day. Use a timer to provide regularity and move your trays around so the seedlings get good light on all sides, it's very difficult to make sure all your plants get enough light if you don't move them around. Movement also helps strengthen baby stems and I usually set a small fan near the plants to keep them constantly swaying and to move the heat and air around.

Young seedlings should be kept moist but not waterlogged. Over watering will encourage fungus gnats and cause damping off (death by rotting at the soil level). Seedlings placed on heat mats may need to be watered more frequently so keep an eye on them.

Leftover seeds can be stored for the next season in airtight containers placed in a cool spot. Some seeds can or need to be sown outdoors so follow your seed packet directions and keep the weeds down for best results. There really isn't anything better then eating fresh, organic vegetables grown from a tiny seed. Stay tuned to other useful tips as the spring goes on and have fun!

Gulley Greenhouse & Garden Center6029 S Shields Fort Collins, CO 80526970.223.GROW 800.642.8028gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.comhttp://www.gulleygreenhouse.com

January Garden Chore Checklist

2012-01-09T14:42:00.002-07:00

January may seem like a month your garden doesn’t need attention but there are plenty of things to do this time of year. From general planning to some physical work, your gardening success —not to mention your sanity— depends on year round attention. Save all your winter chores until spring and you may not have enough time to get everything done before it’s planting time.

Your main focus this time of year should be watering trees, shrubs, perennials and lawn. Without a little H2O, your plants may become weakened and more susceptible to disease and death. Watering deeply and early in the day when the temperate is above 40 degrees is best. Make sure you give water plenty of time to soak in before evening hits.

January is also a great time to begin thinking about this years garden. Planning ahead will save a headache come spring when the todo list grows to monstrous proportions. Think about your overall garden design and how you can do things better this year. Plan out how you are going to rotate crops, make sure unfriendly plants don’t end up planted next to each other, and decide how to integrate companion plants; this can enhance natural pest control and help boost your crop production, flavors and hardiness.

Now is also a great time to decide exactly what and how much you will grow as well as how to start or acquire seedlings. Some plants can be purchased as seedlings and some you will need to grow from seed. Getting your seeds on order now is a great way to beat the crowds and help guarantee you don’t end up meeting the dreaded “out of stock” sign for the more popular varieties.

Perennials can also use a little attention this month beyond normal winter watering. Some late blooming shrubs like russian sage and butterfly bush can use a trim this time of year. Cut them back to 3 inch stubs for best results. You can also plan which plants will be divided and do a little prep work to the new planting area so you can make quick work of the move come spring, before they start their growth cycle.

Now that the holidays are over, recycle your Christmas tree by covering perennial beds with the cut off limbs to provide some additional winter protection. You should also handle any leftover garden clean up you have been putting off, add the brown leftovers to your compost pile and turn it all when the temperature allows.

January is also a good time to check your bird feeders and birdbaths, keep them filled with fresh food and clean water; use an electric or solar birdbath heater to ward off any ice. While you’re thinking about maintenance, why not give your garden tools a little tlc. Clean off the rust; fix, sand and varnish damaged wood handles; oil them up and store them somewhere away from moisture to guarantee they last as long as possible.

Beyond your outdoor chores you can also give a little attention to your indoor plants. Water them as needed since January is known to be extra dry and your furnace is no doubt furthering the problem. Be sure not to over water as that creates the perfect breeding ground for fungus gnats and disease. If you still have some holiday plants around like poinsettias, make sure they have plenty of water, sun and warmth. Trimming your indoor herb garden regularly is a tasty way to keep them producing and strong all winter long. For the most flavor, eat raw or dry as soon as you cut.

I hope you have found this checklist useful, plan ahead to save yourself lots of headaches when the spring finally shows up.

Gulley Greenhouse & Garden Center6029 S Shields Fort Collins, CO 80526970.223.GROW 800.642.8028gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.comhttp://www.gulleygreenhouse.com

Winter Watering 101

2011-12-30T13:19:00.000-07:00

Colorado’s winters can be a very dry experience for us humans and for our outdoor trees, shrubs, perennials and lawns. It’s almost certain to be a bit dry from October through March but the driest months are typically January and February. Fluctuating temperatures, low precipitation and a lack of both soil and atmospheric moisture can leave our woody friends injured; without a little supplemental H2O.

While our winter has been relatively wet this year, leaving young plants to fend for themselves may cause weakened, suffering root systems that no one can diagnose until it’s too late. Young, woody plants with shallow root systems should be your main focus.

Lawns can also be susceptible to winter damage, especially new ones; whether they are started from seed or sod. Pay close attention to grass on the south and west side of your home as these get the brunt of Colorado’s wind and sun. Watch the weather and it will tell you what your plants need.

When watering, it’s best to wait until the temperature is above 40 degrees and be sure to water early in the day so the H2O can soak in before freezing temperatures return for the night. Water once or twice through the winter when the ground is not frozen and give a little extra water to anything planted against structures as they get more reflected heat and can dry out easier.

A great way to water younger trees and shrubs during the winter is using a soil needle like the Ross Root Feeder. These hose attachments allow watering directly into the soil where it’s needed most. Water shallow rooted varieties 9 to 12 inches below the surface using a zigzag pattern (see image for proper water placement). Water for a minute every 8 inches in this pattern to make sure you give all the roots a good soak. Deeper rooted varieties may need watering up to 18 inches below the surface.

For large, established trees and shrubs, as with your lawn, sprinklers will work best to distribute water evenly. It’s also a good idea to mulch trees and shrubs to help retain moisture and keep the freeze thaw cycle at bay. Also remember to give younger plants more water then older, established ones.

I hope this will help you make easy work of your winter watering chores and guarantee a beautiful and healthy outdoor environment come spring.

If you need a Root Feeder they are available from our online store here:

http://gulleygreenhouse.3dcartstores.com/Ross-Root-Feeder_p_47.html

Have a Happy New Year everyone!

Gulley Greenhouse & Garden Center6029 S Shields Fort Collins, CO 80526970.223.GROW 800.642.8028gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.comhttp://www.gulleygreenhouse.com

Save a Tree for Christmas

2011-12-20T13:41:00.000-07:00

O Christmas tree, O Christmas tree...

Christmas is a time for joy and sharing. It’s also a time to enter the nearly forgotten attic to pull out those dusty holiday decorations. Amongst the miles of twinkling lights and plastic reindeer parts, many of us also pull out and dust off the old fake tree; trying to remember where all those not so color coded branches are supposed to go. This year may be the year you decide to forgo using that old plastic monstrosity and go with a real, pine smelling, chipmunk housing, Christmas tree.

Of course, if you are a sustainably thinking person, you may not want to waste your hard earned money on a sad, already dying Christmas tree. The answer? A potted tree! Once it has fulfilled its life long dream of bringing Christmas joy to your living room, it can then be planted in your yard and enjoyed all year long.

And so the journey begins to find out how to keep a living tree - alive - both inside and out - this chilly Christmas season. Read on to find out what we learned and get ready to have your Christmas tree budget pulling double duty!

First things first, you have to decide what kind of tree will suite both your indoor space and outdoor space. There are many options for this area such as Ponderosa, Pinon, Austrian, Lodgepole and Scotch pines, Blue Spruce, Alberta Spruce, and more. However, a cute little potted tree can be easy to handle when it’s small, but if it’s planted too close to the house or other trees, you may end up with a big problem down the road. So do yourself a favor and select a tree that will work well for your outdoor space once it’s fully grown.

One of the biggest things to consider when bringing a living tree into your home during the winter is that it’s actually dormant this time of year. If you want to plant the tree on New Years Eve, you need to know how long you can safely keep it snoozing away inside. After all, leaving the tree inside too long and ”waking it up” would most certainly lead to a premature death at the hand of our chilly Colorado weather. This of course would defeat the whole idea and we can’t let that happen. Turns out a living Evergreen tree will only stay dormant for a week to 10 days inside (if you keep it cool), so obviously timing is everything.

It’s probably best to purchase your tree a few days before Christmas so you can have it in the living room till new years. You will want to choose a nice afternoon before hand to dig a hole for the tree. Come January 1st you'll be happy you did, otherwise you may be pick axing the yard to get it planted. You should also put some good garden soil somewhere it can stay thawed and workable, you’ll need it to backfill the hole you dug which should be twice as big around as the tree.

Beyond the timing issue, indoor tree placement plays a big role in your tree’s survival. In order to keep your tree from thinking it’s spring, choose a good spot right in front of a big window or at least away from any heat source. This will keep the tree cooler and help sustain a winter hibernation. In addition to proper placement, it’s also best to set the tree in the Garage for a few days before bringing it into your heated home.

Once you have the tree in your house, you will want to make sure and set it on some sort of vapor barrier such as a bath mat or even a piece of cardboard (in addition to your saucer), just to lessen the possibility of moisture damage to your floor. This is important because you will need to give your tree a bit of water every day it's indoors, to keep it moist. It would even be smart to get a humidifier blowing up into the tree if possible, since the winter air can be so dry here in Colorado.

So now you have the basics together and it’s time to decorate. Decorating with miniature, LED lights is best, these will create less heat than larger lights and help keep your tree sleeping soundly. We also recommend leaving off the tinsel and fake snow as these can be hazardous to the wildlife that will undoubtedly enjoy your tree when it joins your outdoor space.

After the week of indoor enjoyment is over, it’s time to return the tree to the garage for a couple more days to ease the transition back outside.

To transplant, remove the tree from the container and place in your pre-dug hole so the top of the rootball is slightly above ground level. Remove any wire or rope around the rootball or trunk and backfill with your workable soil. Water heavily to settle the backfill, you may have to add more soil after it settles. Once the tree is planted, watered and the soil is filled to the appropriate level, go ahead and add three to five inches of mulch; straw, pine needles or wood chips work best with our spring winds. Mulch will help keep the soil moist and protect the roots from the frost heave cycle our crazy Colorado weather has in store.

Water your tree through the winter at least once a month, or more if the weather is extra dry. You may also want to stake the tree if planted in a wind prone area. All of this will help take your tree from an awesome Christmas decoration to a lasting member of your outdoor space.

If you want a living tree as part of your Christmas experience but don’t have a place to plant it, why not consider donating the tree to a worthy cause that can use it. Contact local churches, your city planning department or other non profits, there is always someone out there that can give a home to your saved tree.

I hope everyone considers saving and planting a tree this holiday season.

Merry Christmas from your friends at Gulley Greenhouse!

Gulley Greenhouse & Garden Center6029 S Shields Fort Collins, CO 80526970.223.GROW 800.642.8028gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.comhttp://www.gulleygreenhouse.com

A Spicy Winter Solstice

2011-12-16T13:45:00.000-07:00

Garlic Braids- Awesome Kitchen Decoration

As the winter solstice approaches it’s time to decide how you will celebrate it. Never celebrated it before? Well, maybe this year will be your first. Traditionally it’s been a day to get your garlic bulbs planted and that’s exactly what I will be doing on Dec. 21st - barring any serious weather issues of course. Luckily our winter hasn’t been painfully cold this year and my garden soil is still workable.

I love garlic. It’s easy to grow, my wife and I put it in almost everything we cook and frankly the store bought varieties leave something to be desired. Nutritionally speaking, garlic is a great source of Vitamins A and C, potassium, phosphorous, selenium, and a number of helpful amino acids- not to mention keeping those blood sucking vampires away. Garlic has been shown to be a powerful natural antibiotic, improves the immune system and can even help maintain healthy blood pressure and cholesterol levels.

Garlic, aka the “stinking rose”, is one of 700 species of Allium and is a sulphurous compound. Because of this, stronger tasting cloves have more sulphur and therefore contain more potential health benefits, not to mention more taste. Garlic generally comes in three types; softneck, hardneck, and elephant. While all three types of garlic are tasty, each one definitely has characteristics all its own.

Softneck Garlic is typically what you find in the grocery stores due to its long shelf life and heavier yields. There are many types of softneck beyond what you will find in the store so you will definitely want to grow a few varieties to get you through the winter. Varieties that do well in Colorado include Inchelium, Polish White, Chet’s Italian Red and Kettle River Giant.

Hardneck Garlic varieties produce large cloves, are easy to peel and have more flavor than softnecks. Their loose skins however lead to a shorter shelf life of 4 to 5 months so are harder to find in the stores. Unlike softneck garlic, hardnecks throw up a flowering stem (scapes) that eventually turn woody. Varieties that do well in Colorado include Red, German White, Polish Hardneck, Siberian Purple Stripe and Persian Star.

Elephant garlic is, as you might guess, the largest of the garlic types. It has a milder flavor, is typically twice the size of other strains and has a long shelf life (when stored properly). I like to just sauté sliced elephant garlic with butter, olive oil and salt and pepper for a very tasty treat.

Garlic is considered a perennial but is usually grown as an annual. It grows 1 to 3 feet in height and the recommended planting time for colder regions, such as Colorado, is in the fall. Garlic can, however, be planted during the winter if the ground is still workable. Allowing the roots to develop over the winter will give it a head start come spring. The soil should be prepared so it can drain easily and has plenty of organic matter available. Garlic needs full sun to do it’s best but will tolerate some shade.

To plant garlic, just separate your bulbs into cloves. Use the largest cloves for planting and make lunch with the little ones as they will make smaller bulbs. With the root end down, push your cloves 1 to 2 inches into the soil, about 6 inches apart. Mulch over the cloves to prevent frost heave during the coldest of winter months.

If you see a few green shoots popping up during warm periods of winter don’t worry, garlic is very hardy and new leaves will grow back in the spring. Don’t forget to pinch the coiled scapes on hardneck varieties to produce larger bulbs.

Garlic is ready to harvest mid-summer. Wait for the top two thirds of the foliage to die off and turn brown. Be careful not to cut into the bulb when harvesting, it’s best to use a sturdy pitchfork and unearth the entire bulb. Also remember to stop watering about 4 weeks before harvest so the skins can dry out prior to digging.

To store your bounty, just dry the garlic in a warm, dark, airy place for a few weeks. Cut the stalks about an inch above the bulb and store in mesh bags at room temperature. Or you can braid a few together and hang in the kitchen - out of the sun - for a tasty, homemade decoration. Don’t forget to save a few of your largest bulbs for next year’s planting!

Garlic is a wonderful addition for just about anything you cook and the leaves can also be used fresh, can you say garlic chive baked potatoes? Another great way to use garlic is to roast your unpeeled cloves in the oven at 350 degrees for 15 minutes, then peel and mash into potatoes with some butter and enjoy!

Gulley Greenhouse & Garden Center 6029 S Shields Fort Collins, CO 80526 970.223.GROW 800.642.8028 gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.com http://www.gulleygreenhouse.com

Houseplants For Health

2011-12-06T15:17:00.001-07:00

Everyone knows that plants produce oxygen and bring a peaceful feeling to most environments. But did you know that houseplants can reduce stress, fight colds, remove contaminants from the air, and even help prevent headaches? Well they sure can and I personally enjoy these benefits on a daily basis.

Indoor plants can help scare off cold-related illnesses by increasing humidity levels and decreasing dust particles in the air. They even remove air born contaminates and VOCs that cause headaches and other nasty ailments. Houseplants have also been shown to increase happiness, speed up the healing process and even lower blood pressure; all by simply adding a bit of calm and enjoyment to our indoor environments.

Turns out houseplants can even prevent allergies by helping children build a tolerance to them early in life. If you have plants all around your home they will increase available oxygen, naturally and inexpensively humidify the air and generally make your home more enjoyable.

Do you want healthier indoor air? The following list of air filtering plants was compiled as part of the NASA Clean Air Study, which researched ways to clean air in space stations.

1. Heartleaf Philodendron (Philodendron Scandens `Oxycardium’)
2. Elephant Ear Philodendron (Philodendron Domesticum)
3. Cornstalk Dracaena ( Dracaena fragrans `Massangeana’)
4. English Ivy (Hedera Helix)
5. Spider Plant (Chlorophytum Comosum)
6. Janet Craig Dracaena (Dracaena deremensis `Janet Craig’)
7. Warneck dracaena (Dracaena deremensis `Warneckii’)
8. Weeping Fig (Ficus benjamina)
9. Golden Pothos (Epipiremnum aureum)
10. Peace Lily (Spathiphyllum `Mauna Loa’)
11. Philodendron selloum
12. Chinese evergreen (Aglaonema Modestum)
13. Bamboo or Reed Palm (Chamaedorea Sefritzii)
14. Snake Plant (Sansevieria trifasciata)
15. Red-edged Dracaena (Dracaena Marginata)

For an average size home (under 2,000 square feet) the study recommends using at least fifteen of these common houseplants to improve your air quality. They also recommend using a pot six inches or larger.

Caring for Houseplants is simple, follow these guidelines to increase success.

Soil and Container
Good soil and an appropriate container are critical for growing healthy houseplants. Choose an appropriatly sized pot for the plant and always used a good sterilized potting soil. Mix in some well decomposed compost so your plant will get a leg up on it’s nutrient needs. Don't use soil from your garden or the local dirt pile, it may carry diseases or other unwanted criters.

Watering
Water is the most important factor for your houseplants so water consistently and appropriately for the particular plant. It’s also a good idea to collect rain water if possible to give your plants a natural, chemical free drink.

Humidity
Most house plants like a bit of humidity so when winter hits it may be necessary to get a humidifier going to keep them happy.

Lighting
South and west facing windows typically get the most light so choose your plant’s location based on it’s needs. If you are short on windows you can use a grow light or even a florescent light to keep them happy. It’s best to keep artificial lights close to your plants, about 16 inches away, and give them at least 14 hours of light each day.

Fertilization
If you planted your houseplant as outlined earlier in this post then it may not need added fertilizer. If you decide it does, then choose a well balanced compost tea or other natural fertilizer instead of potentially dangerous chemicals. It’s best to add fertilizers in spring and summer when the plant is actively growing.

Repotting
Most house plants will be good in their pot for several years but eventually will need to be replanted. Be sure to choose a pot that is only about 2 inches larger and deeper then what it’s used to. A huge jump in pot size can stunt your plants growth (or at least the part you can see) and may also retain too much water which can cause root rot.

* Please note that some houseplants can be toxic if ingested so if you have small children or pets please keep those varieties out of reach or out of your home.

My personal favorite house plant is Aloe Vera, it’s a beautiful and amazing medicinal plant which has benefited mankind for thousands of years. Aloe is also responsible for curing my wife’s Eczema problems when nothing else could.

Other uses for the Aloe plant (Please consult your physician before using any plants medicinally):
Natural Disinfectant
Boosts your immune system
Acts as a powerful antioxidant
Helps counter digestive disorders
Relieves burns, itching, scrapes, and insect bites.
Rejuvenates skin
Has antibacterial properties
Increases healing of wounds
Has been known to help fevers, blisters, canker sores, mouth ulcers, and cold sores
Contains carbohydrates, vitamins (C, folic acid, B1, B2, B3, and B6), calcium, magnesium, manganese, zinc, copper and can only be taken internally if processed correctly (it is available commercially as a juice).

I hope everyone enjoys the benefits and beauty houseplants can provide. My home is filled with all kinds of plants, including an herb garden, bonsai trees and a couple of pepper plants (dug from my summer garden) to provide a little home grown winter heat.

Josh Hillhouse - Media Manager at Gulley Greenhouse.

Gulley Greenhouse & Garden Center6029 S Shields Fort Collins, CO 80526970.223.GROW 800.642.8028gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.comhttp://www.gulleygreenhouse.com

Winter Potatoes

2011-11-28T15:37:00.001-07:00

My son digging winter potatoes in late Nov.

One of my personal favorite garden crops is the potato. Long after the frost and snow has killed off most of the garden vegetation, these little jewels can be unearthed and enjoyed well into winter. The natural insulating quality of garden soil protects these tasty little tubers from the harsh and ever changing Colorado weather.

Growing a bumper crop of potatoes takes very little effort. With a bit of soil preparation and some basic care it’s easy to grow an impressive crop, even with limited space. Beyond benefits such as minimal maintenance and an extended storage life, few other crops yield more than the potato.

Growing Potatoes:

First things first, try and choose an early maturing variety such as Norgold Russet or Superior- I personally had good luck with French Fingerling and All Blue this year as well. It’s best not to buy seed potatoes from the grocery store as these potatoes may be treated with chemicals or carry diseases that could contaminate your garden.

Once you have your seed potatoes in hand, cut the larger ones into several pieces, making sure each piece has an “eye” or sprout. It’s best to let your cut pieces “heal” at room temperature overnight before planting; this helps ward off any invading creepy crawlers or bacteria in the soil.

Loose, well-drained soil with a generous amount of organic material is the key to growing potatoes. Compost is always an excellent soil amendment and keeps freshly turned soil from re-compacting and impeding drainage. After you decide on the length of your row, dig a trench 4 to 6 inches deep and 12 inches wide. It’s best to then dig a bit of compost into the bottom of the trench’s soil to allow for better drainage.

Potatoes should be planted four-to-six weeks before the last frost. April is a great time to plant potatoes here on the front range. Place your seed pieces in the trench with the eyes or sprouts facing up. Push the “seeds” half an inch into the loose soil of the trench and space them 12 inches apart.

Once you have the seed potatoes placed, fill the trench with either 4 inches of soil or 6 inches of clean, weed-free straw. As potato plants emerge, add another four-to-six inches of soil or straw. You can continue to “hill up” soil or straw around the plants to force more potatoes to grow, stop hilling once you see flowers forming.

Water as needed to keep the roots evenly moist, but not soggy. If you choose the straw method you may need a bit more water as it tends to dry out quicker if your garden gets wind. Water at least an inch a week but be careful not to over water.

You can begin harvesting your “new potatoes” in early August by simply pulling back the straw or shallow digging the soil, take what you need and carefully replacing the straw or soil. Come fall time your true potato harvest is ready. Share your bounty with family and friends but don’t forget to leave enough in the ground to get you through the winter! There really isn’t a better place to store these beauties for the winter then where they grew. If the temperature is going to fall too much below freezing, just throw a little mulch over the row to keep the ground and your harvest from freezing. Nothing is worse then finding frozen taters when you are in serious need of some mid winter, home made french fries.

Be sure to add this tasty and prolific crop to your 2012 veggie garden plan and your Gulley Greenhouse shopping list!

Josh Hillhouse - Gulley Greenhouse Media Manager

Gulley Greenhouse & Garden Center6029 S Shields Fort Collins, CO 80526970.223.GROW 800.642.8028gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.comhttp://www.gulleygreenhouse.com

Delosperma Fire Spinner™

2011-10-19T11:53:00.001-06:00

Delosperma 'P001S' Fire Spinner™ Ice Plant

We're crazy about a new variety of perennial Delosperma called Fire Spinner. Fire Spinner is a Plant Select winner and will be showcased in the 2012 Plant Select program.

Why are we crazy about it? In addition to Fire Spinner's sparkling orange and pink bloom, the hardy green foliage creates a fast spreading carpet which remains throughout the winter.

The plants are covered in flowers in spring and continue to bloom periodically throughout the summer. Expect Fire Spinner to grow up to 18" in diameter and about 1-2" high.

This perennial would make a great addition to a rock garden or an area of your garden which has sandy, dry soil and full to partial sun coverage.

Gulley Greenhouse & Garden Center 6029 S Shields Fort Collins, CO 80526 970.223.GROW 800.642.8028 gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.com http://www.gulleygreenhouse.com

Gulley's Custom Container Gardens

2011-10-01T13:55:00.001-06:00

Gulley's Custom Container Gardens, a set on Flickr.

If you're a busy gardener who has always wished you had ordered a fully planted container garden (or two) before the season was over, then now's the time!

Now through October 23, place you order for a custom grown container garden and take 10% off!

Our staff will discuss the best colors and plant choices for your container garden and then design and plant it for you - to be ready by spring 2012.

What do you think? Is this the year to sit back and enjoy while you allow us to do the work? 970.223.GROW

Harvest Festival at The Gardens on Spring Creek

2011-09-24T15:53:00.000-06:00

Giant watering can sculpture at The Gardens on Spring Creek

On Saturday, September 24, we enjoyed a full day of activities at The Gardens on Spring Creek. Their annual Harvest Festival was being held from 9am-3pm.

Festival events included;

Fort Collins Lions Club Pancake Breakfast
Square Dancing by the Ponderosa Promenaders
Theatre presentation by Bas Bleu Theatre
A Harvest Songfest and Sing-a-Long
Kids Crafts
Tug-of-War and Burlap Sack Races
Horseshoes and Pumpkin Bowling
Workshops on raising chickens, floral arranging, fresh garden cooking, basket weaving, hives and honey, tastings of garden-fresh tomatoes and peppers and snackin' from the garden for kids.

Marketplace vendors and exhibitors gave the event a fun community market feel while adding some great local products, arts and crafts to the festival atmosphere.

Perhaps the highlight of our day at the Harvest Festival was the ribbon-cutting ceremony for the newly finished rock garden.

The Gardens on Spring Creek Executive Director, Michelle Provaznik and Kirk Fiesler of LaPorte Avenue Nursery cutting the ribbon at the rock garden.

The enormous rock garden was a project that involved over 2 years of planning and hard work to complete. Full of gorgeous local rocks, a stone walkway and hundreds of sub-alpine shrubs, trees and perennials, this garden is truly a work of art.

Many of the rock garden perennials have begun to flourish and spread giving the visitor a good idea of how glorious this garden will be once it is fully established.

Images of the rock garden at The Gardens on Spring Creek

Because we had donated perennials to the rock garden, we were invited to take part in the ribbon cutting ceremony where we were presented with an engraved rock thank you gift.

Mateo and Nancy accepting a thank you gift from a Gardens on Spring Creek horticulturist.

Our day at The Gardens on Spring Creek was memorable in so many ways. Perhaps the greatest reward was the reminder that people working together can build something wonderful for the entire community to enjoy.

To view our complete photo album, click here.

Bulbs galore!

2011-09-11T14:52:00.000-06:00

It's "Bulb Central" here at Gulley Greenhouse where we have a huge selection of spring flowering bulbs just in from Holland.

As you know, spring flowering bulbs are typically planted in the fall here in our Northern Colorado area. You may also force these bulbs for indoor blooms in 6-8 weeks - just in time for the holidays!

To get an idea of the varieties we have this year, take a look at our fall slideshow by clicking here. If you plan to come in to pick up some bulbs, be sure to ask about our upcoming Bulb Workshop with Nancy Brown - it's sure to be a lot of fun (you'll take home a free potted bulb plant too)!

You may also like to print a copy of our Spring Bulb planting information sheet as well. Happy planting and we hope to see you soon!

Gulley Greenhouse & Garden Center

6029 S. Shields Fort Collins, CO 80526

970.223.GROW

800.642.8028

www.gulleygreenhouse.com

Winterizing roses

2011-08-31T10:53:00.000-06:00

Winterizing Our Rosebushes

By Stan V. Griep

American Rose Society Cerified Consulting Rosarian

Gulley Greenhouse Rosarian

Member: Loveland Rose Society

When we talk about winterizing our rosebushes, there are some important steps to take as well as information to keep in mind.

STOP FEEDING
As a good rule of thumb, we should stop feeding/fertilizing our rosebushes as we do during the growing season as of August 15^th. The only feeding that should be done after that is to give each rosebush a couple tablespoons of super phosphate mid to late September. Scratch it into the soils around the rosebush a bit and water it in well. The super phosphate will give the root system a little nourishment to keep it strong through the long winter months.

MOUNDING TECHNIQUE

Make up your own winter mounding protection mix. Get some garden soil or potting soil that does not have any fertilizer added to it, mix some play sand in with the soils. Not a lot just enough to help keep it a bit lighter for some air movement through it. Doing this will allow the mounded soils to give you protection you need without compacting around the rosebushes canes and possibly starting a nasty fungal infection or mold problems.

AFTER THE FIRST FROST

Once we have gotten a good hard frost and the rosebushes are headed off into dormancy, use the soils mix to mound soils up around the rosebushes. Make the mound of protecting soils go up 6 to 8 inches from the base of the rosebush up onto the canes. Water it lightly to settle it in. Place some shredded cedar or other mulch over and around the mounded soils to help hold the mounding in place. Water the mulch down lightly as well.

USING A ROSE COLLAR
You may use the rose collars for this mounding protection as well. Place the rose collar around the base of the rosebush and fill it with the mounding mix or other mounding materials of your choice up to about 2 inches of the top of the collar. Water lightly and then add mulch over the top to fill the collar up. Water the mulch down lightly as well. Themounding is done to keep the rosebushes cold, not really so much to protect them from the cold. The idea is to keep the rosebushes cold throughout the winter. Without the mounding protection the rosebushes could easily get the wrong idea during those long stretches of warm winter days and start to grow. The return of the cold of winter can then kill the rosebush.

WINTER WATERING

I use a moisture meter, when possible to get it in the ground during the winter months, to keep an eye on the soils moisture. Even during the winter months the rosebushes will likely need a little watering, especially if it is a dry snowless and windy winter. Not keeping an eye on the soils moisture will indeed kill the rosebush just as we cannot survive without water.

WINTER PRUNING

After the mounding is done, it is time to prune the hybrid tea and grandiflora rosebushes down to about half their current height. Remember, this is all done once the rosebushes have been through some hard frosts and some cold days and nights so they are into dormancy! This pruning helps protect the canes of the rosebush from breakage due to strong winter winds and heavy snowfalls. Even though it is colder it is still wise to seal the cut ends of the canes after pruning with Elmer’s White Glue. Not the school glue as that tends to wash off easily. Some of the floribunda rosebushes may have gotten fairly tall as well as quite bushy, it would not hurt to prune their height down as well as thin them out some. Too dense a grouping of canes, even without their foliage, can lead to smashing down breakage from heavy snowfalls. This same height and thinning out type pruning can apply to the shrub roses as well, such as the Knockouts and the David Austin English rosebushes. For the shrub rosebushes keep in mind that is a light thinning and not a major pruning.

CLIMBING ROSE BUSHES

Climbing rosebushes typically do not need a lot of winterizing. Just be sure the canes are all well supported to protect them from the strong winter winds. They can be covered with a breathable fabric to help protect the canes if so desired. I do recommend doing the mounding with these as well.

Hopefully all of this winter prep care will help your rosebushes to survive through the winter well. We all want to be sure to be able to see their beautifully smiling blooms come Spring!

Article courtesy of our favorite rosarian, Stan Griep.

Follow Stan online here

Fairy garden ideas

2011-08-12T09:57:00.000-06:00

One of many fairy gardens created here at Gulley Greenhouse

Take a visual tour with us here as we show you some of our favorite Gulley Greenhouse fairy garden designs...

As you can see, the possibilities are almost endless. If you would like assistance creating your fairy garden or would like to attend one of our fairy garden classes, give us a call: 800.642.8028.

For even more ideas and to see views of our life-sized fairy garden, visit our online photo album here! Of course, you can stop in to see it in person during store hours too. Enjoy!

Birdbath and fountain care

2011-08-08T15:57:00.002-06:00

Having a birdbath or fountain in your garden is one of the easiest ways to create an outdoor sanctuary for your own enjoyment while offering a much needed source of water for area birds, butterflies and bees.

With these simple tips, you can enjoy the beauty and benefits of a garden water feature year-round!

PREPARATION TIPS

Choose a water feature that will hold up to the conditions. Some decorative birdbaths and fountains may be designed for short-term outdoor use only. If it looks questionable, ask!
Prepare the area in which you will have your birdbath or fountain. Make sure it will sit on a sturdy, level surface in your garden. Larger fountains may require a little extra site preparation in order to provide the most long-term stability, such as a concrete or brick pad.
Make sure your water feature is near a garden hose or another easily-accessible faucet for quick filling and cleaning.
If your water feature requires electricity in order to operate, read installation instructions thoroughly and setup accordingly.
Keep in mind; if you have pets such as cats or dogs, you may want to consider the safety of the wildlife visiting your feeder or fountain. For example, a low-level birdbath placed adjacent to dense shrubbery may be an easy target for a cat to ambush the birdbath visitors.

SETTING UP
Once you have chosen your water feature and prepared the site in your garden, it's time to install it. Ask for help from a friend or neighbor if the item is particularly heavy or awkward to move.

Using fresh water, thoroughly rinse out the birdbath or fountain bowl(s) to remove any existing dirt or residue. Allow to dry before refilling.
Fill again with fresh water and attach any pumps or other features to your source of electricity and observe for proper operation. It may take a few minutes for a water pump to circulate the water and begin operating smoothly. If you notice any problems - such as no water movement at all or unusual sounds being made by your water pump, disconnect from the electrical source and give us a call.

MAINTENANCE TIPS
When kept regularly full and clean, your new birdbath or fountain should provide many years of easy enjoyment. Keep the following tips in mind in order to get the most out of your garden investment.

Maintain fresh water in your birdbath or fountain at all times. This may be the most challenging part of owning a water feature. Keeping the water clean and fresh will help prevent the spread of disease amongst your feathered friends and will keep the water feature in top shape.
Birdbaths can be kept outside year-round. When the water freezes, add enough slightly warm water to defrost the existing ice, or invest in a birdbath heater.
In areas where the winter temperatures fall below freezing for several weeks at a time, it is recommended you thoroughly clean and drain all water, then move the fountain to a garage or shed for the winter. However, this may be inconvenient for most home gardeners. The next best option would be to clean and drain your fountain, remove the water pump for indoor storage and cover your fountain using a canvas tarp.At the very least, drain your fountain of water and keep it free of debris throughout the winter. (Note: many manufacturers will not honor damage claims to water features which are not covered or stored during the winter)

Freshening up the water and regularly removing debris from your water feature can be an easy and enjoyable garden task that will help you to get the most out of your new investment. The birds will thank you too!

Sharing the harvest

2011-08-05T11:28:00.001-06:00

Harvesting green beans for delivery to the Food Bank of Larimer County

After a delayed spring, I am thrilled that veggie season is finally in full swing. However, I can’t believe I am already behind on harvesting. Zucchinis, cucumbers and beans seem to grow bigger by the hour. A quick glance at the garden this morning tells me that my kitchen counters will be overrun with produce after I harvest this weekend. I’m getting overwhelmed just thinking about it!

If you are in the same situation, I have a solution for you. The Gardens on Spring Creek is teaming up with the Food Bank for Larimer County to collect produce from local gardeners. For the next 6 weeks, The Gardens will be a drop off point during weekend hours (Saturdays 9 – 4:30 and Sundays 12 – 4:30). The Gardens is located at 2145 Centre Avenue. The Food Bank will distribute the fruits and veggies through its Food Share and Kids Café programs.

So, if you have extra vegetables, or your neighbors simply refuse to take any more squash, we hope to see you at The Gardens this weekend.

Article courtesy of Michelle Provaznik, director of The Gardens on Spring Creek

The lure of Echinacea

2011-08-03T09:47:00.000-06:00


Echinacea purpurea alba 'White Swan'

Just when you think it's too hot to be outside, the lure of Echinacea plants blooming in your garden becon you to step out and enjoy their beautiful and inviting display of color. But, Echinacea plants offer more than just great color. Here are some of the other outstanding qualities of this garden favorite;

Easy to grow perennial which requires little maintenace.
Once established, many varieties are drought tolerant.
Beautiful display of color from summer through fall.
Great for cut flowers.
Flower petals can be used in edible food arrangements.
Attracts bees and butterflies.
Large variety of colors and sizes to choose from.

Echinacea 'Tiki Torch'

Echinacea 'Cranberry Cupcake'

Echinacea 'Secret Desire'

Echinacea 'Big Sky Twilight'

Echinacea 'Big Sky Sunrise'

Echinacea 'Green Envy'

Echinacea purpurea 'Doubledecker'

This year, we grew 28 varieties of Echinacea!

Echinacea's do their best when planted in full sun. Be sure to amend the soil before planting and provide enough room for your plants to grow to their full size. Smaller varieties grow from 15-24" high, while the larger varieties may reach to 36" or even 48" high.

If you would like help choosing the best variety for your garden, give us a call or stop in and ask one of our garden experts. Who knows... maybe you too, will be lured in by their beauty!

Leticia's Tropical Salsa

2011-07-29T20:38:00.000-06:00

Leticia's Tropical Salsa
It’s no wonder this salsa won first place in our Salsa Contest!

The mix of tangy and sweet flavors with a nice touch of spice makes for the perfect combination to serve with absolutely anything!

INGREDIENTS
1 fresh pineapple
4 fresh mangos
Onions (red onions or use the white part only if using green onions)
4 serrano peppers
Cilantro - to taste
Olive oil - to taste
Salt - to taste

DIRECTIONS
Chop the pineapple, mangos and onions into small pieces. Add to a medium sized mixing bowl.

Dice the serrano peppers and cilantro.
Mix all ingredients together.

Add olive oil and salt to taste.

Mix well and refrigerate for 8 hours to allow the flavors to blend.

TIPS

When adding salt “to taste” to any recipe, use sparingly and taste frequently. It is much more difficult to remove excess salt than it is to add a pinch more!

This light and fruity salsa would make a wonderful topping to any grilled meat or vegetable dish.

Serve salsa in a chilled martini glass surrounded by crisp tortilla chips for a stunning presentation.

Feeling creative? When chopping your pineapple, cut off the bottom 1/3 of the pineapple to use as the “cup” for serving. Carefully hollow-out the fruit flesh using a small paring knife and a large spoon. Use the fruit pieces for your salsa.

Make your own homemade tortilla chips by cutting then deep frying fresh corn tortillas in cooking oil.

What do you think? If you prepared this recipe, we'd love to hear your comments. Simply leave your comment at the bottom of this post. Thank you!

Watering Basics

2011-07-24T08:00:00.000-06:00

Knowing when and how to water your garden can save time, money and a lot of frustration!

The soil-water connection
Because the vitality of a garden depends so heavily upon good watering practices, the connection between the existing soil conditions in your yard and the watering practices you use should be one of the most important things to consider in your day-to-day gardening projects. Why? If your soil is sandy, you may find that you can’t seem to water enough. And, if you have areas of clay in your soil, you’ll notice that even a little water in the area causes problems for your plants. Here’s a great way to determine what soil conditions you may have and how to water accordingly.

STEP 1
Is there an area in which you suspect there are drainage problems? If so, start there. If not, choose any area of your garden and dig a hole six inches wide by approximately one foot deep.

STEP 2
Fill this hole with water and allow it to drain.

STEP 3
Once the water has drained completely, fill the hole again with water.

STEP 4
This time, track how long it takes for the water to drain from the hole. This will help determine what type of soil you have.

TIME TO DRAIN
2 hours or less...
If the water drained from the hole in 2 hours or less, you have a drainage problem. The problem is likely due to high amounts of sand in your soil.

3 to 4 hours...
If the water drains within three to four hours, it’s not very likely that you have a soil drainage problem.

6 hours or more...
If water is still standing in the hole after six hours or more, you have a drainage problem which could be due to too much clay in the soil.

SAND VS. CLAY
As you can see, sand will cause the water to run quickly through your soil whereas clay can create a barrier and block water from draining.

Some plants prefer sandy conditions, while others won’t be too bothered by soil that is heavy in clay content.

Getting to know the soil and water requirements of your individual plants will help determine the best place to plant them as well as how much or how little to water them.

WEATHER
Seasonal weather conditions can dictate how much or how frequently you water as well.

In Colorado, we recommend watering once or twice a week for trees, shrubs and perennials. Water your lawn two to three times a week, preferably in the morning or at dusk.

If the weather is particularly hot and dry, water more frequently. Should we have a great deal of moisture, water less.

SEASONS
Keep in mind that the growth rate of many plants is high in spring and will slow down in July and August as they prepare to store up nutrients for winter.

Watering should be increased and decreased according to your plant’s growth schedule as well.

Questions?
It can seem a little overwhelming when you consider all the factors at play with the health of your plants, but don't get discouraged! Observing your plants and asking questions when you are uncertain will be the best steps you can take to becoming an expert yourself.

As always, you can reach us by phone at: 970.223.GROW or toll free: 800.642.8028
You may also email your questions to us at: gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.com or post your question right here on our blog.

Deadheading Roses

2011-07-22T16:25:00.000-06:00

Deadheading Roses

By Stan V. Griep

Colorado Native Rosarian 40+ years

ARS Certified Consulting Rosarian

Loveland Rose Society Member

American Rose Society Member

The subject of “deadheading” or the removal of the old blooms from our roses seems to generate some controversy much the same as pruning them. Basically, when it comes to deadheading your rosebushes, I recommend using a method that gives you the results you are looking for. Should you be told that you are doing it “all wrong”, do not immediately believe that you are.

I witnessed and was taught various methods of deadheading by my Grandmothers and my Mother as a young man. I not only witnessed and learned each method but also saw how the rosebushes responded to each method. For my mother, a side concern of deadheading seemed to be how the overall bush looked after the deadheading routine, as far as its overall shape and harmony with the garden or bed the roses were in. Deadheading was not only the removal of the spent blooms, it was also a time to shape the rosebush and consider how and where the new growth would come in.

My grandmother, Mary May, would walk around her rose gardens at deadheading time and take a particular spent bloom in her hand. With a quick motion she would “snap” the bloom off. This would leave a bare stick of a stem standing up in the air a little ways above the foliage. There was no shaping of the bush done with her method, as all she really cared about was the pretty blooms. The looks of the overall bush really did not seem to matter so much to her. She felt that she got repeat blooms quicker using her method and stuck with it.

My grandmother, Molly, would prune off the spent blooms down to a healthy looking leaf set junction with the cane. It did not need to be a five-leaf junction. The pruning point could be at a three-leaf junction as long as the cane looked sturdy and healthy there. Although she did not really concern herself with the overall shape of the rose bush, her method always left the rose bush looking better without all the remaining stems sticking up in the air all over the place. Well, in my opinion anyway!

Over the years, I honestly do not remember the differences in repeat blooming being that great with any of the methods. I do remember my grandmother Mary May that used the “snap-off “deadheading method, complaining sometimes that a new big bloom would sag or “flop over” as its stem was too weak to support the new big rose bloom.

I have heard and read that deadheading to the first 5-leaf junction when pruning Hybrid Tea roses is a “myth”. Yet I have observed first hand the problems that can come about by not doing so, especially with large blooms. There have been times when I have pruned, or deadheaded, back to a second five or more leaf junction just because the cane looked too small in diameter to support a new nice big bloom.

One rule of thumb that I have read about was deadheading to the first 5 or more leaf junction where the cane diameter is approximately that of a pencil. There is no need to get out any form of measuring device to check the diameter. It is simply a matter of what looks sturdy when comparing the diameter of the cane or stem at the point considered for deadheading, and the diameter of the stem for the bloom that is to be deadheaded. If the bloom being deadheaded was a nice big one and did not sag or droop, then that same diameter of cane should be sufficient to support the new growth and bloom. If the bloom being deadhead did have a droopy nature, perhaps it would be best to prune back to a larger diameter leaf-set to cane junction.

With Floribunda and Grandifloras I learned to prune back to a sturdy looking leaf-set to cane junction. The five-leaf rule does not need to apply with these wonderful bushes. Nor does it apply to deadheading my miniature rosebushes. Still of concern with these rosebushes is keeping an eye on where the new growth will come in at, or in other words, deadhead to a leaf-set junction where the new growth will go in the proper direction for the particular bush. When the overall rosebush has a tight center portion already, it would be best to deadhead to a point where the new growth will go out and away from that tight center growth area. For my floribunda and grandifloras I prefer to have a full looking bush so I will deadhead to a point where the new growth will come more into the center area of the bush more often than not.

One key thing I recommend before deadheading any rosebush is to step back and take a good look at the current rosebush. Then do your deadheading looking towards where the new growth needs to go to either achieve or maintain the shape that you desire for the overall rosebush.

As one of my final touches after deadheading, I seal the ends of all the freshly pruned canes with Elmer’s White Glue. This helps to keep the cane borers or cane boring wasps from entering into the tender fresh center pith of these cut cane ends causing the death of the cane, a portion of the cane and even sometimes the entire rosebush. It is important to use the non-water soluble White glue and not the school glue so that the hard seal is maintained over the cut end of the cane and does not wash off. Some folks tell me they have used wood glue for this but I cannot recommend its use, as when I used wood glue it caused significant cane die-back from the point of its application. I have been informed that some formulations of wood glue may contain chemicals that will cause the die back of the living tissues.

My final touch to the deadheading process is to water each rose well and gently rinse down all the foliage on each bush that has been deadheaded. The roses do seem to appreciate as well as respond to this final touch.

Find a deadheading method that gives you the results you like and stick with it. No matter what method or technique you choose, enjoy tending to your roses! They enjoy the time you spend with them and will reward you in full measure. :o)

Article courtest of Colorado rosarian, Stan Griep.

Follow Stan online here

Two important topics, one great seminar!

2011-07-20T17:40:00.000-06:00

Good watering techniques can save you a great deal of time and money

Two important topics which all gardeners should know about

will be covered at our seminar on Friday, July 22, 2011 at 4pm;

Watering wisely and the Pine-Bark Beetle Epidemic.

Why these two subjects in one seminar? Watering is one of the most important factors in the health of any plant. With Colorado's erratic weather and soil conditions, correct watering practices couldn't be more important for your plants and for you!

In addition to wise watering practices, it is important to understand the impact which the Pine-Bark Beetle Epidemic has upon the Colorado and Southern Wyoming region.

This epidemic has been described as 'catastrophic' by state and federal foresters. It is estimated that approximately 4 million acres have been impacted by this unprecedented outbreak.

Although you may not have pine trees in your yard or even in your immediate area, being informed about the latest developments in this widespread epidemic will provide you with the ability to help educate others who may be more directly affected by the forest devastation currently being caused.

"ODC" Colloidal Chitosan product by AgriHouse Brands, LTD

At this seminar, we will introduce a new product which has been developed to help reduce the Pine-Bark Beetle population by approximately 37%. This product, called "ODC" has had exciting results when tested on pine trees in our area. It is non-toxic and one bottle can treat up to 30 trees in one application.

One lucky guest will take home a free package of ODC just for attending!

Interested? Give us a call for more information or to register for this great seminar: 970.223.GROW.

Article information gathered from articles by CSU, AgriHouse and the United States Department of Agriculture Forestry Department.

Well worth the time

2011-07-16T12:27:00.000-06:00

Gardening…a Great Way to Meet the Neighbors

As the Director of our community botanic garden, the Gardens on Spring Creek, I am a firm believer in gardening as a way of building community. This past weekend, I was reminded at how gardening can build neighborhoods.

I spent a good part of Fourth of July weekend working in my yard. Weeding, deadheading, tending to the veggie garden, and mulching were all on the to-do list. Many of these tasks were done in the perennial garden in our front yard. I also weeded some of the planting islands in my neighborhood. While gardening, an interesting phenomenon occurred – I met new neighbors and caught up with others. I enjoy chatting with neighbors about plants and plans for their gardens, or catching up on kids, pets, spouses, etc.

Some of my gardening tasks took longer than expected. But the social connections made with neighbors was well worth the time.

Article by Michelle Provaznik, Director of the Gardens on Spring Creek

Welcome to Gulley Greenhouse, Alpine Robotics!

2011-07-15T20:44:00.001-06:00

Alpine Robotics Team #159

Being a local company which loves to support our community youth, all of us here at Gulley Greenhouse are proud to announce a live robot demonstration by Poudre School District's Alpine Robotics Team on Saturday, July 16 from 11am-1pm.

Alpine Robotics is one of our longest standing fundraising groups. Having planted roses in our popular "Rose Pot-Up Fundraiser" for several years, we can safely say this group has probably potted up tens of thousands of roses with us here at the greenhouse!

Alpine Robotics team members at the Gulley Greenhouse Rose Pot-Up Fundraiser, 2011

Of course planting roses is no easy task, but designing, building and operating a new robot every year is a much bigger challenge! Read on to learn more about this amazing group of individuals. And, if you'd like to find out how to get involved with or would like to follow their national robot competitions, check out their website here.

By all means, please stop in and see them at their live deomonstration too. They will be here at Gulley Greenhouse on Saturday, July 16 from 11am-1pm. You might even have a chance to operate the robot yourself!

ABOUT ALPINE ROBOTICS
We are a group of Poudre School District students that endeavor to be dedicated, student run, and who all share an interest in science and technology. We may design and build robots, but our team is much more than that.

Our mission is to be a dedicated team that works together, and help each other prepare for careers in engineering, science and technology. The people that are on our team have a dedication to teamwork, and their community. As a team, we attempt to inspire future generations to get an education in a workforce like environment. After students graduate from high school, our hope is that we have given them a professional working environment which prepares them for future careers.
In order to achieve this goal, we participate in the FIRST Robotics competition. FIRST stands for For Inspiration and Recognition of Science and Technology. Every year we are given a new challenge ranging from going over bumps, or shooting balls into hoops to lifting a robot off the floor and hanging from a bar. By doing this, students learn how to work as a team along with community mentors. Students on the team learn valuable skills that translate into many future careers.

Beginning Watercolor Class

2011-07-13T11:10:00.000-06:00

Watercolor painting samples by artist Trish Murtha

Join us for our first ever Watercolor Painting Class on Friday, July 15, 2011 from 2-5pm. Artist Trish Murtha will provide all the materials needed... all you have to do is show up ready to have some fun!

ABOUT TRISH

Popular, spirited and award-winning artist Patricia "Trish" Murtha teaches all levels of watercolor... and especially loves beginners. She will teach guests how to "see" your garden favorites and create beautiful paintings from colorful subjects right here at the greenhouse. Of course you can take these skills home with you and capture the beauty of your own summer backyard too.

CLASS INFO

Trish will offer step-by-step demos and individual help with painting flowers, buds, petals leaves and more. This is not a technical, botanical painting class, but an impressionistic fun style class.

Class size is limited so that Trish can give her full attention to each student. All supplies are provided, including a full "pallette" of choices in flowers right here at Gulley Greenhouse! So, treat yourself to something you've always wanted to try and take advantage of this great opportunity for personal instruction from an award-winning artist right here in Northern Colorado!

A RARE OPPORTUNITY!

Do you know someone who would love to take this class with you? Call to sign yourselves up, make it an afternoon and take home an original or two! Class cost $20. Please call to register: 970.223.GROW.

Photographing roses and flowers

2011-06-23T11:16:00.001-06:00

Rose 'Mary Rose' photograph by Stan Griep

Photographing Roses and Flowers

By Stan V. Griep

ARS Consulting Rosarian

Award Winning Photographer

Member: Loveland Rose Society & American Rose Society

When I photograph roses and flowers I never ever cut the bloom or blooms from the bush or plant. I like to be able to take their pictures again as they open naturally. I also love to use the natural lighting. As a backdrop for some of my photos I use either a piece of black felt with a more stainy black fabric glued to it or a white felt with a satiny white fabric glued to it. The backdrop fabric is approximately 30 inches square. At one corner of the square I cut a slit all the way to the center of the square. Then I place the stem of the subject bloom all the way into the center of the square using that slit in the fabric. The sides of the slit act as flaps that I can place over each other to seal the backdrop for a solid appearance. Then holding the back edge up behind the subject bloom or blooms I start taking the shots. I move from left to right and a bit up and down as I snap the shots. The different angles give you some very different views of the subject bloom. You will see some stunningly beautiful photos of the bloom or blooms at the various angles and differing lighting conditions. I usually take between 8 and 10 shots of the same subject bloom or blooms moving around them as metioned.

I love to take photos in the early mornings. The lighting is so very nice and the roses and flowers are truly at their best then. Plus I even get some early morning garden friends visiting me then such as bee’s, butterflies and even the occaisonal hummingbird. Getting a shot with them in the photo is a special garden gift for that photo session! I use a digital camera for all of my photos and it is an automatic but I set it to manual mode. The reason is that I also like to be able to adjust the exposure settings as I take the shots as well. Red and white blooms can be some of the hardest to capture correctly. The reds like to bleed into each other and thus make for a washed out look. Or at times the reds will have what I call a blue bounce to them that throws the color way off from what it should be. The white blooms are SO bright that they wash out and you lose all of that beauty of the petal textures and the folds of the petals that are so gorgeous. By setting the exposure on my camera to the underexposed or negative side, sometimes a lot, I can capture all that wonderful petal texture and all of those graceful and elegant folds in the subject bloom or blooms. Even if the photo is a bit dark I can bring some light back into it with a photo editor like Photoscape (a free download that I love to use.) or Photo Shop, etc… Using the photo editor I only add a bit of light to enhance the photo and otherwise do not alter it. The true and actual beauty is maintained.

My main tips to taking photos are:

· take your photos using the morning light, there is truly something special about that lighting,

· relax and breathe, you won’t get those blurring shakes to your photos,

· take a lot of shots at different angles, there will be some real diamonds in the group,

· use the camera of your choice as much as you can and learn the various settings, take a walk outside the “automatic” settings lines.

"Share the beauty you beheld when taking those photos, within each 'bloom smile'

there is a friend or a loved ones smile." Stan Griep

Visit Stan's rose blog ~HERE~

The bloom behind the thorns

2011-06-15T18:24:00.000-06:00

The bloom behind the thorns

When we met Bonnie in the summer of 2010, we had no idea what experiences were ahead for this small framed woman interested in participating in our Rose Pot Up fundraiser and our fundraising crew here at Gulley Greenhouse.

Winter of 2010 came around and the fundraiser schedule was made. All of our fundraising groups, which mostly consisted of youth sports teams, local church groups and other non-profit organizations, were informed of the planting process and agreed enthusiastically when they were told about the often uncomfortably cold, dirty and sometimes ‘thorny’ conditions of this fundraiser. Bonnie, of course, was also excited about this opportunity having mentioned the significance that roses held in her now deceased mother’s heart.

Little did we know that Bonnie would quietly take our fundraiser by storm! She was prompt (often early), worked incredibly hard throughout the day and had such a bright, positive attitude we could not help but to look forward to seeing her each time.

Bonnie and her son, Justin, during the Gulley Greenhouse Rose Pot Up fundraiser

Bonnie was unbelievably dedicated to her goal of raising funds for the research of GBM (GlioblastoMamultiforme), a rare form of brain cancer. GBM is a predominantly incurable and aggressive type of cancer, leaving patients with an average of 14 months to live once diagnosed.

What does GBM have to do with Bonnie? Even though it is rare (occurring in 3 of every 100,000 cases of cancer), she has lost a total of 5 family members or friends to this disease within the last 3 ½ years. The most recent of which was her mother. Her brother lost his life to GBM just 3 years prior to that.

Because it is so rare to know of anyone who has died from GBM Bonnie’s experiences with loss due to this disease are a phenomenon.

Throughout the course of the Rose Pot Up fundraiser, we learned that Bonnie also volunteers her time at the University of Colorado Cancer Center with clinical trials focused around the treatment of GBM. Her mother's neurosurgeon, Dr. Allen Waziri, leads a research clinic on campus as well and has made a career of searching for better treatment methods for GBM. According to his Curriculum Vitae, Dr. Waziri says; "My research goals therefore primarily revolve around the exploration and development of new therapeutic options for GlioblastomaMultiforme.”

A warrior in a cause close to home, Bonnie had this to say about her experience planting roses with us, “… something had continually recurred to me over the weekends working there… the analogy that, sometimes life drags you through the dirt for a while before allowing you to come out smelling like roses on the other side…we can’t always make heads or tails of it or understand it… we just have to push thorough, make the best of it, learn what we can and know that we will come out on the other side… usually stronger, with a fresh perspective and, if you’re lucky – with new friends like the ones I’ve been making, hopefully while making a positive difference and impact as we go.”

It's obvious that Bonnie has already accomplished her goal of making a positive difference to many of us here at Gulley Greenhouse. Not only does she tirelessly dedicate her time to this cause, she approaches it with an incredibly positive attitude.

We would like to thank Bonnie and her son, Justin (who also pitched in with the fundraiser this year), for seeing 'the bloom behind the thorns' and reminding us why we offer fundraising opportunities in the first place... it's the people.

Gulley Greenhouse fundraising team

For further reading:
Glioblastoma multiforme

Dr. Allen Waziri

Gulley Greenhouse fundraising

Delightful works of art

2011-06-09T10:45:00.000-06:00

Delightful works of art

Have you checked out the Butterfly Pavilion yet?

I recently went to the Butterfly Pavilion in Westminster with a group of Red Hat ladies. The website suggests going in afternoon when there are aren’t as many bus loads of school children visiting. (Good luck dodging the Red Hats!)

If you are one who appreciates nature, there is quite a bit to see and do. There’s a “hands-on” exhibit with sea stars, sea cucumbers and horseshoe crabs. Check out the nature trail where you’ll find rabbits, herons or an eagle. You can learn about butterflies and other creatures such as beetles, leaf insects, and scorpions. If you are up for it, you can even hold Rosie, a Chilean Rose Hair Tarantula. You can spend your time trying to capture the butterflies with you camera or even just wander around while the butterflies land on you hand, your hat or your camera. I spent most of my time trying to take pictures and wishing I had a “faster” camera…but I also had fun watching people young and old having a great time discovering nature up close and personal. I also noticed that some kids really hate bugs! Their parents may have been trying to teach them that not all bugs are creepy and slimy but I think some of the youngsters only learned that even if the creature is delicate and beautiful, it is still a bug.

There aren’t many bugs I don’t appreciate. Every garden creature has a purpose even if we humans find their purpose counterproductive to our purpose. Butterflies are pollinators and provide food for some of the critters that feed on the bugs that we really don‘t like. We forget that these butterflies come from leaf-munching caterpillars.

It’s not very difficult to create a butterfly garden. Like any wildlife you wish to attract, all they need is sheltered areas and sunny spots to rest, food plants for the young caterpillars, plants that produce food (nectar) for the adults and a source of water. Wandering around the Butterfly Pavilion made me realize how simple it really is to attract these delightful works of art.

Visit the Butterfly Pavilion website by clicking ~HERE~

Blog post by Su, one who appreciates winged creatures and a Gulley Greenhouse employee

Our favorite critter repellents

2011-06-01T13:27:00.001-06:00

A selection of Liquid Fence brand repellents

Our favorite critter repellents

LIQUID FENCE

By far, one of our favorite garden critter repellents is Liquid Fence. This product came highly recommended to us by the town of Breckenridge. So we gave it a try ourselves. (Can you imagine the damage one little rabbit can make to a whole greenhouse full of lettuce plants?) The results of using Liquid Fence impressed us enough to carry a wide line of their products and to recommend it as our #1 critter repellent.

We feel confident recommending Liquid Fence not only because it works so well, but also because it is made from all natural ingredients. So, you don't have to worry about using Liquid Fence on or around edible plants and in areas frequented by pets or children. The formula is biodegradable and will not harm the critters you wish to repel.

So how does it work? Liquid Fence is available in either a 'Ready-to-Use' spray or in granular form. Either formulation simply needs to be applied to the area which you want to protect from deer, rabbits, dogs, cats, moles, snakes, geese and more. The ingredients in each critter repellent formula is designed to cause the pest to stay away from the area which you treated. Though it does not smell great even to humans, the odor will dissipate enough to be barely noticeable. If you are particularly worried about the odor, you may want to use the granular formula.

Guarantee

The Liquid Fence company stands behind their product so strongly that they even provide a 100% money back guarantee. To read more about their guarantee, click ~HERE~.

BONIDE

Problem with moles? Try Bonide Mole Max.

It repels moles, voles, gophers, rabbits, armadillos, and skunks….. in lawns, flower beds, and gardens. This formula is clean, dustless and biodegradable. Granules are safe for use around children, plants and pets. 1 lb. treats 500 sq. ft. and lasts up to 3 months. Contains Rucinus Communis Oil (Castor Oil) – 10%.

AND MANY MORE...

Here at Gulley Greenhouse, we have a solution for just about every garden critter you may encounter. And, we have the experts to suggest the best formula for your environmental concerns too. Just stop in or give us a call 970.223.GROW. You may also email us at: gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.com or leave a comment right here on this blog.

HOME MADE FORMULAS

Spicy and/or strongly scented concoctions may work for home and garden insect repellents too. We are aware that some of these mixtures, when used in moderation, will work!

Garlic-Pepper (all purpose formula)

Combine 1 tsp. Tobasco sauce (or your favorite hot pepper sauce)
Add 4 cloves crushed garlic
1 qt water

Using a blender, mix all ingredients on high speed until well blended. Strain using cheesecloth or a sieve to remove large pieces of garlic. Pour mixture into a specially marked sprayer and use generously around plants. Controls insects such as whiteflies, aphids, spidermites, caterpillars and more.

Home Insecticidal Soap

Combine 3 tsp. of one of the following; Ivory liquid dish soap, Murphy's Oil Soap or Castile soap
and 1 quart of water in a spray bottle.

Use to control home and garden insect problems. Reapply after heavy rain or watering.

Do you have a favorite insecticide you like to use? Let us know about it! Please leave a comment and share your thoughts about the best product or remedy for insects in your garden.

Garden Critters

2011-05-28T14:19:00.000-06:00

Garden Critters
by Michelle Porvaznik

After spending many hours in my garden this past weekend, I am amazed at the amount of critters my yard hosts. Birds have always been welcome guests, but I discovered 3 nests because of the chirping baby birds in them. I discovered burrowing bees in my vegetable garden (fortunately before I dug the hole in the exact same spot!). Of course, I also found aphids on my roses which I quickly blasted with a hose.

The critters I struggle with the most are the bunnies. My creeping Phlox has had only a handful of blooms and the Echinacea is being leveled. Unfortunately, my senior dachshunds are no longer a deterrent for the rabbits taking over my yard. Apparently, the Great Horned Owls that nested in a large cottonwood just beyond our property were no match for them either. The baby bunny I found in my garden “closet” was really too cute for words, but he is living in my vegetable garden (sigh!).

So, today I went to the nursery and purchased a critter deterrent spray and applied it to the affected plants. I have no idea if it will work, but I can attest to the horrendous smell. I am sure that this is just step one. It should be an interesting summer…

Blog post by Michelle Provaznik director of the Gardens on Spring Creek

Gardening Memories

2011-05-26T17:24:00.000-06:00

A Lily of the Valley plant with blooms just about to emerge.

Gardening Memories
by Su Morford

Plants have been a part of my life, all my life. Sounds like an incredibly obvious statement, right? We've all had plants in our lives. It's just that I've been recollecting plant related topics quite a bit lately and I can't remember a time when plants weren't a part of my memories.

The first flowers I remember were the dainty white bells of the lily-of-the-valley hugging the shady side of the house I lived in when I was in kindergarten. At different times during my childhood, my mother was both a "working mother" and a "stay at home mom". No matter which life-phase she was in, she always planted flowers and watered houseplants.

She's still fond of her roses, iris and nasturtiums. I remember the time our backyard was so full of lilacs that my father invited anyone with a shovel to come over to dig some up to take home. He kept just enough lilacs in the corner of the yard for a cool, cozy spot to crawl into during a hot summer day (my own "secret garden").

When my kids were small, they each had a whiskey barrel of their own to plant whatever plants in them they wanted. My daughter chose marigolds and my son chose carrots. (My daughter still plants flowers and my son likes to cook.) When I remember the people in my life, my memories usually connect them with a song or a singer, or perhaps a movie. Lately I find that my memories also include plants.

Blog post by Su, a Gulley Greenhouse employee

Nancy's strawberry-rhubarb pie

2011-05-17T12:51:00.000-06:00

Nancy's strawberry-rhubarb pie

STRAWBERRY-RHUBARB PIE

Ingredients:

3 cups cut rhubarb. Cut into 1/4" pieces
1 cup fresh strawberries, cored and sliced into 1/3" sections
3 Tbsp. Quick Cooking Tapioca
1 1/2 cups sugar
1/4 tsp. salt
1/4 tsp. nutmeg

Directions:

Mix all ingredients together well and let stand 20 minutes.
Preheat oven to 400.
Prepare your favorite filled pie crust recipe or use pre-made pie crusts if you have time restrictions. Make sure you have enough for 2 crusts (one for the bottom of the pie and one for the top).
Place one crust into the bottom of a 9" or 10" glass pie dish.
Pour strawberry-rhubarb mixture into pie crust. Dot with butter (about 1 Tbsp.).
Prepare top crust by either making a lattice top (shown), decorative or simple crust. Place second crust over pie and pinch corners to attach to bottom crust.
Place in center rack of oven and bake for 30 minutes. Use a pie crust shield or aluminum foil to prevent the crust from getting too brown.
Continue baking 10 more minutes or until the whole pie is bubbling and liquid appears to be thick.
Cool on rack and serve.

For additional tips and serving idea for this recipe, click ~HERE~ to print.

Enjoy!

Protecting rose bushes from the cold

2011-05-16T15:38:00.000-06:00

Roses on a cold spring day in May

With the spring weather perhaps taking "sneaky" cold dips, thought I would tell you how I protect my new rose bushes if I hear the temps may get down to 30 degrees or lower this time of year.

I use either a big bath towel or a beach towel and wrap it lightly around the rosebush, then cover the entire rosebush with a large trash bag. The bath or beach towel provide a little insulation and the large trash bag helps keep it all from getting wet. Uncover things in the morning if the sun comes out nicely. If it stays cold and rainy, just leave it all on until the next morning as you will likely need the protection left on for that night anyway. This is just a little something I have done for several years to protect new bud and bloom freshly planted rosebushes.

You can do it with the more established rosebushes too if so desired. Some of the smaller rosebushes can be covered/draped with a hand towel and a good sized bucket placed over them for a similar type protection. This will work for some other plants as well.

Stan V. Griep
ARS Certified Consulting Rosarian
Webmaster: The Colorado Rosarian
Green Cure Representative - CO
Member: American Rose Society
Member: Loveland Rose Society
Rose Ambassador: Loveland Rose Society
Award Winning Rose Photographer
Rose & Gardening Writer
Visit The Colorado Rosarian Site:* http://rosemanstansblog.wordpress.com/

*"If I should leave this path of life today, I would carry the vision of
Gods' rose blooms with me as I go......"*

Right place, wrong plant

2011-05-03T18:48:00.001-06:00

A beautiful (and extremely fragrant) Daphne shrub

I put it in the Right Place but it must have been the Wrong Plant

I was glad to see Dr John inducted into the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame. I like to make up my own words for his hit song “Right Place Wrong Time” when I am out and about in the neighborhood (“that plant’s not in the right place…it hasn’t got much time“.) Over the years, I have discovered it is SO easy to place the wrong plant in the right place…or the right plant in the wrong place.

A friend of mine had an area along the east side of her house that would be the perfect spot for three small shrubs. She thought the Carol Mackie Daphne would be a wonderful choice because they produce fragrant blooms and would fill that space nicely. The east side of the house would offer enough sun to make them happy but the house would protect them from the hot afternoon sun, which is exactly what the plants prefer.

The shrubs made it through the winter but in the spring, the one on the end died. She replaced it and it seemed to do well for a bit but it too died. It was puzzling since the other two Daphne were happy, healthy and blooming like mad. She was afraid there was something wrong with the soil in that tiny site. She came to realize that corner of the bed also received a few hours southern sun...just enough to be too much for the Daphne on the end. Who knew that three feet could make such a difference?!

Su, a rock n' rolling Gulley Greenhouse employee

Carrots everywhere!

2011-04-25T13:46:00.000-06:00

Photo credit: Heidi Mueller

Guest Blog post by: Michelle Provaznik, Director of The Gardens on Spring Creek

There is something renewing about planting the first seeds in the garden. Watching them emerge from the soil is so exciting. Before the wind started on Sunday, I added compost to my raised beds and incorporated it into the soil. Then, I went through all of my seed packets to select the cool season veggies that could be planted in these early spring temperatures. I was quickly able to sow rows of spinach, beets, and peas.

Unfortunately, as seems to be the case this spring, the wind came. Open packets of carrot and lettuce seed from last year went flying across the garden before I could get them planted. I think I will be finding baby carrots in unusual places for quite a while! The good news is that recent gentle rains and warmer temperatures will help those new seeds emerge in no time.

At the Gardens on Spring Creek, our community botanic garden, our volunteers are just starting the spring planting of the Garden of Eatin’ which displays sustainable practices for growing fruits and vegetables in northern Colorado. We have begun planting peas, spinach, and other greens.

Throughout the summer, our Eatin’ Effort volunteers experience hands-on learning while they diligently plant, maintain and harvest produce from this garden, which is donated to the Food Bank for Larimer County. It is a true community effort.

Enjoy this early season in your garden. I trust the winds will be gone soon.

The Fox

2011-04-19T10:00:00.000-06:00

My mother loves container gardening. Every year she heads to the garden center during the first week of May to pick out plants…the old tried and true favorites and any of the exciting new ones that catch her eye. She usually fills up two shopping carts with annuals, perennials, herbs and a few houseplants. Someone always helps her load her new treasures into her tiny car. When she gets home, she moves everything to the patio table, fixes herself some ice tea, puts on her blue gardening gloves and starts the week-long project of planting her many pots.

Last spring she couldn’t find her gloves…so she bought a new pair when she bought her plants. She drove home, moved the plants to the patio table, etc, etc. She began removing the old soil from the first pot and after the second trowel full, found a green glove buried in the dirt. It wasn’t her glove. There was a second glove to follow, different from the first one but also not her glove. The next two gloves she pulled out of that pot were her missing gloves. We aren’t quite sure why the gloves ended up in the pot. She thinks it’s the mama fox we often see cruising the neighborhood. I tend to believe it’s the squirrel that likes to pester the neighbor’s dog. Whoever is responsible has earned my thanks because my mother loves telling this story to everyone…and apparently, so do I.

Blog post by Su, a Gulley Greenhouse employee

Jim and Jan Gulley

2011-04-13T18:47:00.000-06:00

Both graduates of Colorado State University with degrees in horticulture, Jim and Jan Gulley began their business growing Colorado blue spruce trees and columbine plants in their backyard near campus. That was back in 1975.

In 1980 they moved to the current location at 6029 South Shields and soon opened their doors for retail business. They started out with two greenhouses from Jim's father's carnation range in Denver.

Today Gulley Greenhouse has over 95 cold frame greenhouses and 45,000 square feet of heated greenhouses. Every year more than 3 million plugs (or "poppers") are grown and shipped all across the United States and Canada.

Jim's Live Roof birdhouses and birdfeeders

In addition to growing poppers for shipment to other greenhouses, Gulley Greenhouse is one of Northern Colorado's largest finished annual and perennial growers. Other aspects of their business include Live Roof, Jeepers Creepers and Landscape Architecture services.

Jan's photography notecards

If you were to meet Jim or Jan, you would never know you were talking to one of the owners of such a large business. Their humble and hard-working approach to life clearly shows that they know what it takes to have a dream and to be willing to face the challenges along the way.

When they are not busy working, Jim and Jan enjoy time spent with their family and exploring the beautiful waters off Honduras where they own a marina.

What do they love the most about their business and the Gulley Greenhouse family of customers and employees? They would probably say it's the people.

A gardener's guilty pleasure

2011-04-11T13:40:00.001-06:00

I have a guilty pleasure. I bet you think it is orchids or African violets. While I do enjoy their beauty and the surprising ease it takes to grow them, my true weakness is flower pots. That’s right…flower pots. I have clay pots, glazed pots from China, Mexican pots, German pots, orchid pots, bonsai pots, African violet pots and pots made of tin, stone and resin. I don’t have plants for all these pots (not enough windows) so I have found creative uses for some of them, like holding all my remote controls, paperclips and keys. There’s some fancy soap nestled in a deep blue bonsai pot sitting on the edge of the bath tub. I have so many pots that now I limit myself to one new pot a year.

My absolute favorite pot is the one my daughter made for me in her high school art class. It’s a beautiful shade of green. It has holes for drainage and an attached saucer, which I understand was a bear to make. It’s on the wee side so I have yet to find the perfect plant for it. Every tiny little plant I put in it tends to grow out of it…kind of like children's feet and new shoes. Eventually I must re-pot it and give it to friends and family (those with more windows). Perhaps it is a good thing I have all those other pots.

Blog post by Su, an avid pot collector and a Gulley Greenhouse employee

Fair Weather Gardener

2011-04-04T18:27:00.000-06:00

I hate to say it but I am a fair weather gardener. I love spring…the overnight lows don’t seem so low and days begin to warm up to that awkward stage where you are never sure if you are wearing the right sleeve length. There is the promise of a beautiful day with each sunrise. One can’t help but be excited to get out and play in the dirt. And I would be out doing spring chores today if it weren’t for that pesky Colorado wind! It is definitely no fun chasing the same pile of leaves all over the yard. I’m not all that fond of the dirt blowing straight into my eyes like a magnet. I find myself retrieving my hat from the nearest spirea over and over again…like a scene from the movie “Groundhog Day”.

I’m am sure this has happened every spring I’ve lived in Colorado but I am also sure that the wind has become worse the last few years. Anymore when I check out the weather forecast, I look at the predicted wind speed before I check out the daily high! Just when I think I won’t make it though another gusty, blustery day, the wind stops as though someone has flipped a switch. All the leaves have blown into the neighbor’s yard down the block and my hat is nestled firmly on my head.

The garden beckons again and I can‘t wait to answer.

Blog post by Su, a fair weather gardener and a Gulley Greenhouse employee

Enjoying the Early Arrivals

2011-03-29T19:32:00.001-06:00

Last year fall crept up on me like a freight train…winter too. I didn’t get half the garden chores done that I should have. So Sunday I wandered out to see how much extra work I would need to do this spring to catch up. I was happy to see that this winter has been mild enough to prevent the final wave of fallen autumn leaves from smothering the spring bulbs. The hyacinth leaves have popped up to announce the coming of the vibrant blue flowers that will arrive soon. The tulips and iris are also sending up leaves. While pulling back the last year’s crabapple leaves, I discovered my favorite harbinger of spring…primrose! They are such happy flowers and they handle the cold weather between winter and spring much better than I do. All they seem to need is a little morning sun and a bit of water now and then. Every summer they disappear when the heat gets to be too much and I am certain I will never see them again. Every spring they are my long lost friends who pop in to let me know that spring is indeed here.

Next week I will have to get serious about the yard work but today I will enjoy the early arrivals.

Article by Su, a Gulley Greenhouse employee

Blooming Now! March 15, 2011

2011-03-15T10:02:00.000-06:00

Cool weather lovers, Pansies and Violas look beautiful now. And they can be safely planted now too. Even if our area receives a spring frost, these durable perennials can withstand the cold. Be sure to keep them watered if we do not have enough precipitation.

Gorgeous Pussywillow branches are at their best right now.

One of the first perennials to bloom in the spring: Helleborus.

We have a fresh new supply of indoor plants such as orchids and blooming foliage plants.

Have you ever seen a "Lady's Purse" flower?

Always a favorite; Gloxinia.

And more! Don't let the cool weather stop you from having great color in your home or garden.

Your Garden Notebook

2011-01-19T15:23:00.000-07:00

Keeping a garden notebook is a hobby anyone can love. It gives you a chance to organize your thoughts, plan special garden projects and record important information about your garden. In addition, a garden notebook can become a place to collect your favorite garden photographs and memories that will become a treasure to enjoy any time of year!

GETTING STARTED

Your notebook can be as simple or as complex as you like. Here are a few suggestions on how to get started and what your garden notebook can include;

* Use a 3-ring binder or a sturdy sketchbook with hard covers. A firm, flat surface will come in handy while using your notebook outside.

* Plan on having approximately 6 different sections in your notebook including;

1) A calendar to keep track of important planting dates, fertilizing schedules, weather patterns or general observations.

2) Blank or graph paper to sketch out a map of you garden.

3) An area for collected items such as seed packets, plant tags and photographs.

4) A plant section to keep track of detailed plant culture information.

5) A "to-do" or project list area.

6) A section to keep your favorite garden catalogs, magazine articles or garden center information sheets.

USING YOUR GARDEN NOTEBOOK

Now that you have a good idea of what to include in your garden notebook, here are a few tips for how to use it;

* Using blank or graph paper, sketch out your garden from an overhead perspective. Start with trees and shrubs, then perennials, bulbs and areas planned for annuals. Don't forget to include garden structures such as birdbaths and arbors.

* Color or number specific garden bed areas. Use this reference color or number when listing individual plant varieties in the 'plants' section of your notebook.

* List the names of plants in the 'plants' section of your notebook. Save used seed packets and plant tags. Attach with tape or scan and print copies of these using your computer.

*Use the 'calendar' section of your notebook to mark seed starting or planting dates. Note fertilizing schedules and project goals in this section.

* Take photographs and add them to your garden notebook. Photographs taken each season will give you a chance to see the blooming seasons of different areas in your garden.

* Jot down favorite products, important chemical mixing ratios and garden measurements.

GROWING WITH YOU

As you can imagine, a garden notebook can become a very useful part of your year-round gardening adventures. And for those cold or rainy days, you now have a project that is sure to chase the blues away!

To download or print a copy of this article click ~HERE~.

New varieties for 2011

2011-01-13T10:29:00.000-07:00

Calibrachoa 'Superbells Coralberry Punch'

NEW FOR 2011

On the top of our list of favorite new annual varieties this year are: Calibrachoa 'Superbells Coralberry Punch' and Dahlia 'Dahlinova Hypnotica Dark Night'.

The annuals which the Gulley's plant each year along the fence are Calibrachoa plants. Known for their masses of color and great trailing habit, Calibrachoa (pronounced: Cali-bruh-coe-uh) love full sun and show off their best color in hanging baskets or containers.

Calibrachoa along our fence on South Shields.

Dahlia's known for their amazingly LARGE, bright flowers bloom all summer long and make great container or landscape accent plants. 'Dahlinova Hypnotica Dark Night' is one such variety which will dazzle you with it's dark burgundy, double flowers which appear from spring through fall.

Dahlia 'Dahlinova Hypnotica Dark Night'

Grows 12-14" high. Full to part sun. Deep rich burgundy color with vigorous growth habit.

A new tomato variety we will be growing this year is 'Orange Wellington.' This tomato is a whopping 12 ounces of firm, dense and nearly seedless flesh that is bright orange! The plant grows 40-48" tall and does best, of course, in full sun.

Tomato 'Orange Wellington'

An exciting new addition to our selection of perennials is Sedum 'Birthday Party.' Blooming in late summer to early fall, this sedum will dazzle you with its amazing clusters of bright pink, star-shaped flowers. Sedums are some of the easiest perennials to grow - thriving even in hot and dry areas where other perennials struggle.

Sedum 'Birthday Party'

This variety has been called a "butterfly magnet!"

Each year we look forward to growing new varieties and offering them to our customers for enjoyment in their gardens. We hope you'll give some of these new plants a try this year and please let us know your favorites!

Pinecone Ornaments

2010-12-08T16:41:00.000-07:00

Photos displayed in pinecone frames demand a closer look; when hung on the tree, each ornament, like a page in a scrapbook, tells a story. A single ornament -- or a set -- makes a lovely keepsake to share with family members and loved ones.

Supplies Needed

· Pinecones

· Family photos or other favorite images

· Small floral clippers

· Craft glue

· Card stock

· Pencil

· Circle template (make yourself or buy at a crafts store)

· Decorative paper

· Ribbon

Step 1 - removing pinecone scales

Step 1
Carefully remove individual pinecone scales using small floral clippers.

Step 2 - assembling and gluing the pieces together.

Step 2

Glue a photograph or photocopy of a picture onto card stock. Using a template for a circle or other shape (you can make it yourself or buy one at a crafts store), outline the shape onto your photograph with a pencil; cut out. Hot-glue pinecone scales around perimeter at the back of the cutout, so the scales peek from behind the edge. Alternatively, you can glue scales onto the front of the cutout photograph. Finish the ornament with decorative paper glued to the back with a few dots of craft glue. Glue a looped length of ribbon between backing paper and photo to make a hanger.

Great Ideas

Try using old holiday cards for your images and wrapping paper for the decorative backing.
Get the whole family involved! Make some snacks and create an evening of fun while making your pinecone ornaments.
Use small pieces of tree bark or twigs around your images to add to the 'woodland' theme.
Tie your finished ornaments to packages for creative and personalized gift giving.

Project courtesy of MarthaStewart.com

Click ~HERE~ to print a copy of this project.

Winter Watering

2010-12-06T13:01:00.000-07:00

Winter in Northern Colorado is an undeniably beautiful time of year. Landscapes and stunning mountain ranges are blanketed in snow, the sun typically shines brightly every day and people are in the spirit of the holidays.

With so much to see and do, is it really necessary to trudge into the garden and water plants which look like they're 'sleeping' just fine?

Our answer: Yes! In order to keep your garden investment healthy and thriving, winter watering is extremely important.

To simplify the process for you, here are a few quick pointers to keep in mind. For complete details or to print our Winter Watering information sheet, click ~HERE~.

* Plan on doing a late fall deep watering.
* Mulch, mulch, mulch.
* If air and soil temperatures are above 40 degrees with no snow cover during the months of November through March, it's time to water.
* Newly planted trees & shrubs can be watered twice as frequently as established plants during their first winter.
* For trees, water 10 gallons per one-inch of tree trunk diameter (measured at knee height).

And remember;
ALWAYS disconnect hoses after watering.

Wishing you and your family a wonderful winter season!

Spiced applesauce cake with cinnamon cream cheese frosting

2010-10-07T14:45:00.001-06:00

SPICED APPLESAUCE CAKE with CINNAMON CREAM CHEESE FROSTING

Serves 6 Active time:20 min Start to finish:3 1/2 hrs (includes cooling)

This is the cake you want on a cool Sunday evening in October, after you’ve just finished eating your first beef stew of the season. It’s full of the flavors everyone craves once the temperatures cool —brown sugar, cinnamon, ginger, and cloves. The spiced cream cheese frosting is as easy to make as it is delicious.

For cake
2 cups all-purpose flour
2 teaspoons baking powder
1/2 teaspoon baking soda
1/2 teaspoon salt
3/4 teaspoon cinnamon
1/2 teaspoon ground ginger
1/8 teaspoon ground cloves
1 stick unsalted butter, softened
1 cup packed light brown sugar
1 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
2 large eggs
1 1/2 cups unsweetened applesauce
1/2 cup walnuts (optional), toasted, cooled, and chopped

For frosting
5 oz cream cheese, softened
3 tablespoons unsalted butter, softened
1/4 teaspoon pure vanilla extract
1 cup confectioners sugar
1/2 teaspoon cinnamon

Instructions
•Preheat oven to 350°F with rack in middle. Butter an 8- or 9-inch square cake pan.

Make the cake:

•Whisk together flour, baking powder, baking soda, salt, and spices.

•Beat butter, brown sugar, and vanilla with an electric mixer at high speed until pale and fluffy, 2 to 3 minutes. Add eggs 1 at a time, beating well after each addition, then beat in applesauce. At low speed, mix in flour mixture until just combined, then stir in walnuts (if using).

•Spread batter evenly in pan and bake until golden-brown and a wooden pick inserted into center comes out clean, 40 to 45 minutes. Cool in pan 15 minutes. Run a knife around edge of cake to loosen, then invert onto a plate. Reinvert cake onto a rack to cool completely.

Make the frosting:

•Beat cream cheese, butter, and vanilla with an electric mixer at high speed until fluffy. Sift confectioners sugar and cinnamon over cream cheese mixture, then beat at medium speed until incorporated.

•Spread frosting over top of cooled cake.

Recipe by Andrea Albin Photograph by Stephanie Foley

CLICK ~HERE~ TO PRINT YOUR COPY OF THIS RECIPE!

Apple Butter

2010-09-23T10:22:00.000-06:00

APPLE BUTTER

Ingredients
2 Tbsp. unsalted butter
3 pounds assorted apples (peeled, cored and cut into quarters)
2 cups apple cider
Juice of 1/2 lemon
1 tsp. lemon zest
1/2 tsp. ground cinnamon

Directions
In a dutch oven over medium heat, melt butter and add apples. Cook apples until slightly softened, about 5 minutes. Add cider, bring to a boil, and reduce heat to a simmer. Let simmer, partially covered and stirring occasionally, until soft, about 30 minutes.

Preheat oven to 250 degrees. Mash softened apples with a potato masher. Remove from heat and add lemon juice, lemon zest and cinnamon. Using an immersion blender, puree mixture until smooth.

Pour apple mixture evenly into a baking dish. Transfer to oven and bake, stirring occasionally, until thickened and reduced, about 3 to 3 1/2 hours. Let cool before serving. Apple butter may be kept, refrigerated in an airtight container, up to 5 days.

Recipe courtesy of Martha Stewart Living

The beauty of bulbs

2010-09-09T14:53:00.000-06:00

Crocus bulbs in full bloom.

You have to admit, there's something wonderful about the sight of spring blooming bulbs during the weeks when winter begins to fade away. The fragrances, the colors and the feeling that a new season full of green trees, blooming shrubs and chirping birds is simply joyful.

Although for some people the idea of planting bulbs may be intimidating, it is really quite easy!

Spring verses Summer Bulbs
The first thing to know about bulbs is the difference between spring flowering and summer flowering bulbs. Spring flowering bulbs are the bulbs you see blooming in the spring, such as tulips, daffodills, crocus,etc. Summer flowering bulbs bloom much later in the season and include such beauties as; lilies, gladiolus, and some iris varieties.

Spring flowering bulbs are winter hardy; they are planted in the fall and after blooming in the spring, lie dormant until the next spring. They do not need to be dug out of the ground or stored, except when they need to be divided.

Some varieties of summer flowering bulbs are not winter hardy. They may need to be dug from the ground and stored in a frost-free area over the winter (this could be a garage or basement,etc.) until they are replanted the following spring. Please ask one of our garden experts if you are unsure which bulbs need to be dug and stored.

Varieties
Check out some photographs of the spring flowering bulb varieties we have in stock now;

And of course, we have the supplies to help make your bulb planting successful too!

Planting
Bulb varieties require different planting depths. The typical rule of thumb is to plant the bulb in the soil at a depth of 3 to 4 times the bulb's height. Of course the soil amendment is important too. A bulb needs soil which will drain easily to help prevent rotting due to excess water. Add a little bone meal or fertilizer and you're all set!

Rewards
Bulbs are one of the easiest and most rewarding garden additions. You will notice they can come up through many ground covers and even below trees, where other plants do not grow well. In addition, most bulbs will continue to spread over the years, creating an area lush with color year after year.

Spring flowering bulbs often finish their blooming cycle just in time for other plants to start peeking through the ground, giving you a full season of color and enjoyment as well as plenty of room to expand your garden without crowding any existing plants.

Further Information
For additional bulb selection, planting and cultivation information please view the following articles or stop in to speak with one of our experts.

Bulb Types
Planting Spring Flowering Bulbs

Easy Batter Fruit Cobbler

2010-09-09T14:42:00.000-06:00

Easy Batter Fruit Cobbler

For an easy and delicious dessert, try this recipe for Easy Batter Fruit Cobbler. You can prepare this dish with just about any juicy summer fruit including; peaches, nectarines, blueberries, blackberries, strawberries, raspberries or any combination of fruits and berries. To save a little time, you may also use frozen berries in place of fresh berries. ~Enjoy!

INGREDIENTS

4 Tbsp. butter

3/4 cup all-purpose flour

3/4 cup sugar (or your favorite sweetener - measured accordingly)

1 tsp. baking powder

1/4 tsp. salt

3/4 cup milk

2 cups sliced fresh fruits and/or whole berries. (If using frozen berries use one, 12oz. package.)

1 Tbsp. sugar

DIRECTIONS

1. Adjust oven rack to upper-middle position and heat to 350 degrees.

2. Put butter in an 8-inch square or 9-inch round pan; set in oven to melt. When butter has melted, remove pan from oven.

3. Whisk flour, 3/4 cup sugar, baking powder and salt in a small bowl. Add milk; whisk to form a smooth batter. Pour batter into pan, then scatter fruit over batter. Sprinkle with remaining 1 Tbsp. sugar.

4. Bake until batter browns and fruit bubbles, 50-60 minutes. Server warm or at room temperature with a dollop of whipped cream or a small scoop of vanilla ice cream, if desired.

recipe courtesy of columnist Pam Anderson

PRINT THIS RECIPE

Plant Select

2010-08-20T13:42:00.000-06:00

When the summer heat adds a heavy load to your water bill and family events take up much of your time, it's a good idea to consider planting drought-tolerant perennials.

Luckily, the process of choosing is made easy if you know to look for the Plant Select symbol (shown above).

The Plant Select program was developed by a collaboration between the Denver Botanical Garden, CSU, and the Colorado green industry.

Plant Select status is reserved for the toughest plants which have proven to thrive in our area. Before selection, each perennial must undergo a rigorous schedule of environmental challenges - which our Northern Colorado weather readily provides. Plants are tested in trail gardens with very dry climates, late-spring hail or snow, extreme heat and cold, downpours and rapid fluctuations of temperatures.

Plant Select plants are also studied for their ability to hold up to low water conditions, diseases and insects. During evaluation the plants must do more than survive; they must thrive in a variety of garden situations, be non-invasive and provide a long season of beauty.

That's a lot to ask of one plant! Fortunately, there are many varieties which have proven themselves and come through with flying colors in this program.

Stop in and take a look at our Plant Select area here at Gulley Greenhouse. There are many varieties in full bloom now, and others currently showing off the attributes which have earned them the title of being a Plant Select winner.

Tanacetum var. 'Partridge Feather' 2010 Plant Select winner

Please feel free to ask any one of our garden experts about planting Plant Select plants or the Plant Select program itself. We love to talk 'plant'!

If you'd like to see a full-grown Plant Select garden, click ~HERE~ for a map of local Plant Select demonstration gardens. Or, check out this great online design gallery ~HERE~.

So...what will you do with a great looking garden and all your free time?

Annual Flower Trial Garden

2010-08-07T16:04:00.000-06:00

A view of the Fort Collins, Colorado CSU Trial Gardens - photo taken July 30, 2010

Have you been to the Annual Flower Trial Garden this year? If you haven't, then now is a great time to pack your camera and go! The garden is brimming with a rainbow of colors and exciting new plant varieties.

The initial outdoor planting begins in June, where thousands of annuals are brought over from the greenhouses at CSU. The annuals are planted based on genus and then arranged by color. After undergoing direct exposure to our Northern Colorado weather extremes, the plants are evaluated by select horticulture students, faculty, industry representatives, public horticulturalists and advanced Master Gardeners.

Dahlia 'Finals Star'

The results of the evaluations are published and winners are chosen based upon several qualities including plant vigor, uniformity, and tolerance to environmental stresses.

Rudbekia hirta 'Denver Daisy'

Being a part of the plant evaluations is a great experience and the opportunity to stroll through a beautiful garden always reminds us why we love what we do!

Begonia 'Amstel Carneval'

Perhaps we'll see you there!

Would you like to know more about the Annual Flower Trial Garden? Check out the website ~HERE~.

Rose Petal tea

2010-08-01T11:28:00.002-06:00

ROSE PETAL TEA

Ingredients

2 cups fresh, fragrant rose petals (about 15 large roses)

3 cups distilled water

Honey or your favorite sweetener

Directions

1) Clip and discard bitter white bases from the rose petals. Rinse petals thoroughly and pat dry.

2) In a small saucepan over medium-high heat, place the prepared rose petals. Cover with the water and bring just to a simmer.

3) Let simmer for approximately 5 minutes, or until the petals become discolored (darkened).

4) Remove from heat and strain the hot rose petal water into teacups.

5) Add honey or your favorite sweetener to taste.

Makes 4 servings.

Recipe courtesy of whatscookingamerica.net.

Enjoy!

Life can be rosy!

2010-08-01T11:28:00.001-06:00

In addition to the obvious beauty of roses, there are many more attributes which attest to the benefits of this historically favorite flower.

Rose hips (the flowers which have swollen to seed) are an excellent source of vitamins A, B3, C, D and E. They also contain bioflavonoids, citric acid, flavonoids, fructose, malic acid, tannins and zinc. Taken in the form of tea they are good for infections, particularly bladder infections.

The rose also offers a soothing property to the nerves and emotional /psychological state of mind. It is regarded as a mild sedative and anti-depressant. Roses are increasingly used in treatments for conditions of stress: nervous tension, peptic ulcers and heart disease, among others. There is indication that rose essence may also positively influence digestion, bile secretion, womb disorders and circulation. In addition, a tea made with rose petals often soothes a mild sore throat.

With all of these wonderful benefits, planting a rose bush can be just the thing to help get you back on track, while beautifying your surroundings too.

For additional information on the therapeutic benefits of roses, please visit The Rose Magazine's website ~HERE~. Or to get involved in a local chapter of the American Rose Society, visit their website ~HERE~.

A portion of this article was written including information from Andrea Grant, Rose Magazine.

We hope you've enjoyed this article. Please revisit our blog for an upcoming article about putting your roses to bed for the season.

You may also want to stop in and take advantage of the 1/2 price special we are currently offering on our rose plants. Sale prices are good through August 4, 2010. Please call for the most current availability and prices.

Giving and growing

2010-07-23T13:50:00.001-06:00

Although our beautiful Northern Colorado area is growing by leaps and bounds, it's the little things that continue to make it feel like a small town community.

Keeping in tradition with their desire to give to their community, Gulley Greenhouse donated over 200 1-gallon size tomato plants to the Food Bank for Larimer County this week.

Food Bank coordinator, Chuck Gill, said they will be giving these tomato plants to families in order to help encourage them to grow fresh vegetables. He then mentioned the famous proverb which states: "Give a man a fish and you feed him for a day. Teach a man to fish and you feed him for a lifetime."

We like to think that we all have something to teach each other, and during our 37 years in business we've learned that giving and growing go hand in hand.

Garden photography tips

2010-07-17T15:45:00.000-06:00

A basket of annuals photographed by Su

Don't you just love photographs of beautiful flowers and garden scenes? Of course this season is a great time to take advantage of the vivid colors that grace our area. Follow these 6 tips to capture a moment in time with any camera or skill level.

1) Avoid the midday sun. Early morning or late afternoon are the best times to photograph a subject without the harsh shadows and bright reflections of the sun.

2) Use diffused lighting. If an overcast day is not available for your photograph excursion, create your own diffused light by using a section of wax paper, light colored bed sheet or cloth, a t-shirt, or even a white garbage bag. Hold your diffused light item (or have someone hold it for you) between the sun and the subject which you are photographing. While you're at it, take a picture with and without your diffuser, just to see the difference.

3) If the background in your photograph looks too busy and distracting from your subject, block the sun by creating a darkened area behind the subject. Hold a piece of mat board against the sun and move it around until it creates a shadow behind (but not upon) your subject. This is an old photo studio trick which should result in a photograph with your subject standing out against a dark background.

4) If you desire a bright, sunny look in your images, bring out the aluminum foil! Reflect light back on to the shadow areas. Reflectors can be made with other bright colored household items too, including; white mat board, foil-type wrapping paper or a mirror. To add a warm colored cast to your photograph, choose a gold or copper-colored foil.

5) Although most photographic advice suggests you place the sun at your back, experiment with the sun facing you and shining through your subject. This technique, called backlighting, is especially dramatic with plants with translucent flower petals like poppies, nasturtiums and pansies.

6) Last, but not least, have fun! Experiment with different diffusers and reflector materials. Move lower to the ground and photograph your scene toward the sky. Include people and try different close-up techniques. Also, try to avoid putting your subject in the center of the picture. Be creative and enjoy yourself!

Article tips courtesy of Marion Owen, author of PlanTea, Inc.

Did you get some good pictures? Share them with us! We'd love to see your photographs. Connect with us through Facebook or send an email with your garden photographs to: gulleygh@gulleygreenhouse.com.

Stepping Stones

2010-07-09T10:36:00.000-06:00

Kids love spending time in the garden!

Making stepping stones with kids
A great gardening project to do with kids - courtesy of Life123.com

Every garden-whether it's an herb garden, secret garden or a vegetable garden-needs at least one special stepping stone. Stepping stones are easy for a child to make. With a little supervision and a touch of guidance, children can create lasting masterpieces as well as gain confidence in their own abilities.

If made correctly, and taken care of, a stepping stone can last for many years.

Materials and easy directions:

* Form: Make a square wooden form to match the size of your child's hand, or whatever size you require for the project. Or use a round plastic planter saucer. Wooden forms should be screwed together. When the cement has set, take the screws out and gently pry the boards from the cement. With round soft plastic molds, gently push on the bottom of the saucer and the dried stepping stone will pop out.

* Cement: Cement comes in a variety of forms-read labels carefully. Premixed cement with sand and aggregate already added is best. If only making one stepping stone, purchase the smallest bag possible. If using a larger bag, make only as much as will be needed, then secure the bag and store away from moisture. (Some cement requires the addition of small pebbles or gravel-read directions and have all supplies ready before you begin.)

* Hoe: Use a hoe to mix the cement. (It will be sloppy and splash easily.)

* Wheelbarrow: Mix the cement in a wheelbarrow or large pail. (Take care: Mixing the cement is labor-intensive. Wear gloves and old clothing.)

* Shovel: Scoop up shovelfuls of the thoroughly mixed cement and carefully place it into the form. Fill to a thickness of at least two or three inches. (Too thin and the stepping stone will crack when stepped on or dropped.)

* Decorations: Marbles-round or flattened, large or small-dice, plastic letters or numbers and sparkly jewels all work well. (Let your child decorate at will.) Wash hands and equipment immediately.

Once the stepping stone has dried thoroughly, pop it out of the mold and place it in the garden. Make a dozen or so stepping stones, then use them to create a winding path though a small section of the yard. Give your children each a handful of sunflower seeds to plant on either side of the path. (Tell them they are magic seeds, just like in Jack and the Bean Stalk). Think how much fun they'll have walking through a forest of sunflowers they planted themselves.

Stepping stones or any cement garden accessory should be winterized inside. Freezing rain and changing temperatures can cause irreparable cracks.

Watermelon, Lemonade and Blueberry Ice Pops

2010-07-01T13:44:00.000-06:00

Watermelon, Lemonade and Blueberry Ice Pops

We've gone and found a fabulous summer recipe to share with you... just in time for warm days and Fourth of July festivities.

These patriotically colored Watermelon, Lemonade and Blueberry Ice Pops will need to be made at least one day before serving, to allow enough time for freezing.

Click ~HERE~ for the recipe.

Enjoy, and don't forget, we have the flowers to color-coordinate with your celebrations this summer too!

Chocolate Flower

2010-07-01T13:37:00.000-06:00

Berlandiera lyrata (Chocolate Flower)

As you can probably imagine, Chocolate Flower is named after one of its most popular assets: its delicious chocolate fragrance.

Although the fragrance of Chocolate Flower is something special, this sun-loving perennial offers many other qualities which make it a true garden winner.

CHOCOLATE FLOWER...

is a 2004 Plant Select winner,
is considered an ever-blooming native wildflower, reseeding and producing a full season of bright yellow daisy-like flowers from May through September,
works well in a xeriscape garden, thriving on little or no water,
tolerates poor quality soil,
attracts butterflies,
and makes for great cut flowers!

With all these qualities packed into one great perennial, Chocolate Flower certainly makes the top of our list!

Summer Garden Checklist

2010-06-25T09:36:00.000-06:00

Now that your garden is bursting with color and growth it's time to think of the weeks and months ahead.

Garden projects this time of year include; modifying your watering schedule, mulching, deadheading spent blooms, fertilizing and pest control.

Use the checklist below as a guide for your summer gardening tasks.

Water when needed. Watering less often but for a longer period of time will help your plants develop deeper roots. Watch for plant stress due to dry or windy conditions and adjust your watering schedule accordingly.
Mulch. Spread mulch around your plants and flower beds to lock in as much moisture as possible. Leave your grass clippings on the lawn for added disease resistance, water savings and reduced chemical usage.
Deadhead spent blooms. Pruning dead flowers from annuals, perennials and roses will encourage them to rebloom while keeping your garden looking tidy. When pruning roses, cut just above the first leaf with 5 leaflets to promote healthy new growth. Come in to Gulley's and our helpful staff can show you how!
Fertilize and revitalize. Apply Scotts Step 2 Weed Control plus Fertilizer to your lawn. This will help prevent weeds and give your lawn an extra boost of nutrients for the hot season ahead. Fertilize your bedding plants, containers, hanging baskets and vegetable garden with Miracle-Gro Liqua Feed Plant Food. This will give them the energy they need to keep blooming and producing throughout the season.
Watch for those pesky pests! Summer is the ideal time for insects to multiply and thrive in a garden environment. Ward off potential problems by applying preventative or systemic insect control products. Not sure what's eating your plants? Bring in a photograph or a sample and speak to one of our garden experts.

Remember, there are many ways to Go Green! Using a mulching lawn

mower, deep watering your plants and the use of natural and organic products can go a long way towards helping the environment.

Stop in to Gulley's and ask us how!

Pounded Flower Prints

2010-06-10T16:28:00.000-06:00

Pounded flower prints are perhaps one of the most colorful ways to preserve your summer blooms. And, if you have kids, you can plan on this being a favorite family activity for years to come.

Here's what you need to get started

Scissors or clippers
Flowers (with stems) from your garden*
Jar with water
A good pounding surface such as a heavy board or a sturdy worktable
Watercolor paper
Stack of newspapers
Paper towels
Hammer
Tweezers
Clear acrylic coating spray (available at craft & hardware stores)
Pencil

DIRECTIONS

1. Cut flowers from your yard or pick a few common and abundant wildflowers and weeds, such as dandelions. Place stems in the jar of water as soon as they're cut.

2. Place some newspaper on the hard board or worktable. Lay a piece of watercolor paper on top of the newspaper.

3. Place a flower on the watercolor paper and cover it with a paper towel. Use the hammer to tap it gently and repeatedly, making sure you tap the entire flower and the stem, if desired. Peel back the paper towel to see how well the color is transferring. If the paper towel on top looks saturated, the watercolor paper below will be too. When you're satisfied with the color, remove the paper towel and the smashed flower, using tweezers if necessary.

4. Repeat step 3 with the other flowers.

5. To protect the colors, spray the paper with the clear acrylic coating and let dry. Then write the flowers' names in pencil. Please make sure you use the spray in a well-ventilated area.

*Notes: Primroses, Pansies and Iris work great, while Roses and daisies may not print so well.
Project courtesy of FamilyFun.com

Have fun and enjoy the summer colors for years to come!

Miracle-Gro® Nursery Select® annuals

2010-06-10T15:23:00.000-06:00

If you've ever shopped the annuals area here at Gulley Greenhouse, you've probably seen our huge selection of Miracle-Gro® Nursery Select® annuals. Maybe you've wondered how Miracle-Gro® Nursery Select® annuals are different from other annuals?

The most obvious difference is the container. Not only does the container look bright and colorful, you'll notice it's also quite a bit larger than most of our other annual pot sizes. This larger pot size helps promote a healthier plant by supporting a larger root system.

Additionally, the varieties which we carry in the Miracle-Gro® Nursery Select® plant program are the finest and newest annuals on the market.

To top it off, only the plants with the best blooming power are chosen to be included in the Miracle-Gro® Nursery Select® collection of annuals.

All of these great qualities add up to providing you with the healthiest, largest, most colorful annuals on the market. The next time you are in our store, stop by and see for yourself. Perhaps you'll be hooked on them too!

Our roots

2010-06-03T15:19:00.000-06:00

2010 marks the 35th anniversary of Gulley Greenhouse as a local Northern Colorado business. Home-grown from the beginning, Jim and Jan Gulley started the greenhouse fresh out of college. Jan, the horticulturist of the pair, graduated from Colorado State with the plant knowledge to get things growing. Jim’s business sense and carpentry expertise enabled the pair to build a small, yet successful growing operation. They set up shop in their backyard on Sherwood Street in Old Town Fort Collins, selling perennials and herbs to gardeners of Fort Collins and Loveland. Many neighbors of that first location are still loyal Gulley customers today, stopping by to tell great stories of the young couples’ long hours and hard work!

In the early 1980s, Jim and Jan moved the entire operation to the current location south of Fort Collins, and started expanding from there. Jim’s father, Ray, helped get the first greenhouses up and running at the new site. Still focusing on perennials, the Gulley’s began adding varieties and growing for larger wholesale customers and their ever-expanding retail clientele. Today, the operation consists of over five acres of covered greenhouses, countless cold frames, growing fields, and automated systems. Most all of the plants offered for sale have started as seeds or cuttings in the propagation greenhouses, and have been grown and nurtured into healthy thriving plants. This year, Gulley Greenhouse is excited to add a line of USDA Certified Organic herbs and veggies, perfect for home gardeners to start their own organic gardens.

Thirty-five years later, Gulley Greenhouse is still producing quality plants locally. The Gulley’s are proud to be a part of the Northern Colorado community, and continuously give back through fundraiser events and donations. Stop by to see their friendly faces, and shop their premium selection of perennials, roses, herbs, annuals, veggies, trees, & shrubs.

Glorious Gazpacho

2010-05-26T13:56:00.000-06:00

A fun (and tasty) time was had by all!

Here at Gulley Greenhouse, we like to spoil our customers, and especially our seminar guests! My seminar; "From the Garden to the Table" held on Saturday, May 22 was no exception. On the menu was:

Fresh Cherry Salsa

Gazpacho with homemade Creme Fraiche

Spinach Salad with Orange Sesame Dressing

and a delicious Sangria

While I demonstrated the food preparation, we discussed various cooking and gardening techniques, including the use of Agave nectar in place of sugar, the benefits of using sea salt, and of eating local foods.

The seminar was very fun, informative and delicious!

If you would like to join us for the next "From the garden to the table" cooking class to be held on Saturday, June 19 at 12pm, please call for reservations: 970-223-4769, and be sure to bring your appetite!

Fresh Gazpacho with homemade Creme Fraiche.

Nancy and Ryan preparing jalapenos for the salsa.

Cherry salsa... so delicious!

To print a copy of all four delicious recipes, click HERE.

If you would like a copy of "10 Reasons to Eat Local Food", click HERE.

Spring bloomers

2010-05-19T11:53:00.000-06:00

Lilac tree

Now that many spring blooming shrubs are nearing the end of their bloom cycle, they may appear to be simply producing foliage growth. However many of these shrubs have also begun the process of establishing bloom buds for the following season.

Right now (the end of May - early June) is the ideal time to do any pruning or shaping of these early spring flowering plants. Pruning immediately after blooming will allow your plants to focus their energy on the branches and buds which will provide the color and foliage next year! If you prune later in the season, you run the risk of pruning off the buds and leaf nodes that had been developed in late spring.

Lilac, forsythia, quince and viburnum are all good examples of plants whose ideal time for pruning or shaping would be immediately following their bloom season.

Forsythia shrub

There are added benefits to spring pruning as well. Over time, many shrubs become dense with hard, dry wood in the center, leaving sparse foliage and blooms. This problem can be avoided with regular pruning of select inner branches, providing more sunlight, moisture and air flow to the middle of the plant. And, an added benefit of good air flow through your plants is a reduction in the potential for common insect and disease problems.

For an excellent resource on pruning flowering shrubs, including detailed pruning methods for both spring and summer blooming shrubs please refer to CSU's Master Gardener Program's 'Garden Notes' article HERE.

If you're not sure which of your plants can benefit from spring pruning or shaping, simply stop in and speak with one of our gardening experts. We'll even show you the best way to use your pruning shears.

Of course, you're welcome to give us a call or leave a comment right here below this article as well.

Rose Care by Stan Griep

2010-05-12T09:38:00.001-06:00

Stan "The Roseman" Griep joined us here at Gulley Greenhouse for his seminar; "All about roses."

Stan's seminar focused on all aspects of growing roses from preparing the soil, providing good drainage, planting, fertilizing, pruning and even winterizing your roses.

Along with this fantastic information, Stan shared stories about his gardening experiences, several of his award winning rose photographs (three of which were raffled off to some lucky seminar guests) and he provided each seminar guest with a very helpful 36 page booklet full of everything you'd ever need to know about growing roses!

Stan's informational booklet covers topics such as terminology, tips for selecting the healthiest rose bushes, descriptions of the various rose types, disease prevention and control, and even some handy diagrams which show exactly where to prune a rose bush.

If you would like a copy of this booklet, or if you know a friend who would enjoy one, please click HERE to download and print.

We hope you will enjoy Stan's information and please don't hesitate to call us, or leave a comment here if you'd like.

To contact Stan with your rose questions, visit The Colorado Rosarian website HERE, and send him a personal message.

You may also enjoy a visit to any of the websites which Stan contributes to;

American Rose Society

Denver Rose Society

Loveland Rose Society

Learn 2 Grow

Gardening Know How

'Chicago Peace' rose

Thank you Stan for such a wonderful seminar!

The beauty of impatiens

2010-05-11T14:56:00.000-06:00

Impatiens, SunPatiens 'Salmon Variegated'

There's a reason why so many people have a special place in their heart's and in their gardens for impatiens.

Impatiens are not only easy to grow but they also bring great color into the partially shady areas of your garden and on top of that, they're just plain pretty!

This year, we have grown over 50 varieties of impatiens. These varieties include the traditional single blooms, doubles, New Guinea varieties, as well as some new 'SunPatiens' varieties. SunPatiens are impatiens which are more sun-tolerant than other varieties and they have multitudes of blooms as well.

Impatiens 'Super Elfin Coral'

Impatiens 'Fiesta Ole Double'

Impatiens, New Guinea 'Harmony Orange Blaze'

To care for your impatiens, be sure to provide good drainage and follow the sun requirements listed on the plant tag for each variety you choose. Impatiens are also very frost-tender. Should the temperatures fall below 40 degrees, plan to cover your impatiens plants. (Read our article about "Spring Snow" to learn some great techniques for frost-protecting your tender plants HERE.)

When these simple care techniques are followed, you should be graced with plenty of blooms and that lush foliage which impatiens are known for!

Colorful Crabapples

2010-05-05T09:20:00.002-06:00

The vivid colors of spring are displaying themselves in full force right now. Much of this color can be attributed to the glorious blooms of many local crabapple trees.

Blooming in early spring, followed by nice green foliage all season, crabapple trees are some of the easiest to grow, and the most colorful trees to use in your landscape.

In addition, the fruit which crabapple trees produce is an important source of food for many birds.

The Crabapple varieites we typically carry are: Dolgo, Royal Raindrops and Thunderchild.

Dolgo can reach from 35-40' tall and has beautiful white flowers, with bronze fall foliage. The bright red fruit of Dolgo crabapple trees makes a great jelly too.

Royal Raindrops grows to 10'-15' tall, has deep magenta colored flowers and is disease resistant.

Thunderchild grows to 20' tall with showy, pink flowers, an oval shape and great winter hardiness.

This year (2011) we are also carrying a very hardy, white, dwarf variety; Lollipop. This tree reaches a height of 6-8' tall by 4-5' wide. Perfect for smaller spaces!

After planting, crabapples require little pruning other than light shaping for your landscape needs. Pruning or shaping should be completed after the tree has finished blooming and before July, as the flower buds for the following season are being developed at that time.

Should you decide to plant a crabapple tree in your garden, you will find that little maintenance, showy spring blossoms and nice foliage through fall combine to make a very attractive and low-maintenance landscape choice.

Mother's Day

2010-04-29T13:49:00.000-06:00

Mother's Day is coming right up on Sunday, May 9th and we couldn't be more ready!

Our season is in full swing with flowering trees, shrubs, perennials, annuals and hanging baskets. Many of our roses are getting ready to bloom and our vegetable and herb selection is brimming with delightful scents and delicious flavors.

We've taken pictures of some gift ideas to show you here, but of course there's so much more! You might just have to come in to see for yourself. We are open from 9-5 daily, and will have extended spring hours starting May 1st where we will be open from 8-7 Monday through Saturday and 9-6 on Sunday's.

Shown above: waterproof wall art.

Does your special mom love spending time in the garden?

Treat her to something luxurious, like a fountain or a garden bench.

Or, perhaps you'd like to purchase a Gulley Greenhouse Gift Card and allow her to have fun picking out something she's always wanted. You can purchase our Gulley Greenhouse gift cards in any dollar amount. Just give us a call at 970-223-4769 or tell our cashier the amount you'd like when you stop in.

Whatever you choose, even if it's simply an afternoon walk together, we're happy to share our ideas to help make the special mom's in your life enjoy your love and appreciation.

And, we even have cards!

Beneficial Insects

2010-04-26T13:30:00.000-06:00

Did you know...95% of all known insects are beneficial to humankind? So how do they benefit your garden?

Just imagine this: one adult ladybug can eat about 80 aphids per day! And, in her lifespan, a female ladybug will lay about 1,500 eggs, carefully placing them in the middle of an aphid colony to ensure their survival. Even the ladybug larvae will eat about 25 aphids per day.

In addition to the benefits of ladybugs, Praying Mantis will also eat pesky garden bugs, while leaving your garden plants alone.

One Praying Mantis egg will hatch approximately 200-500 babies. The egg "cases" are attached to small branches and will hatch after several weeks of warm weather.

Here at Gulley Greenhouse, we sell both Lady Bugs and Praying Mantis egg cases. In addition, we also carry beneficial nematodes.

What do beneficial nematodes do? Nematodes search, find and kill soil-born pests. The nematodes will reproduce, resulting in more beneficial nematodes to protect your lawn and garden.

The beneficial nematodes which we carry have been tested to be effective in controlling over 200 different soil and boring pests. These nematodes are especially effective on Flea larvae, Flea Beetles, Coddling Moth larvae, Root Maggots, Corn Earworm, Cutworms, Crane fly, Iris Borers and many more!

Beneficial nematodes work best in moist soil at temperatures ranging from 50-85 degrees. Once in the soil, this nematode survives air temperatures below -20 degrees.

One treatment can last more than 18 months in turf or undisturbed soil. In addition, beneficial nematodes don't harm other beneficial insects such as ladybugs and earthworms and they do not harm plants, pets, people or our environment.

Stop in to find out more about these beneficial insects and give them a try! Why not use nature to nurture your garden?

Heirloom Tomatoes

2010-04-22T13:14:00.000-06:00

If you've read the March 2010 issue of Martha Stewart Living, then you have probably read the fantastic article on Heirloom tomatoes.

Heirloom tomatoes are varieties of tomato plants which have been handed down within families and saved from extinction by gardeners, collectors and preservationists.

Many of these tomato varieties include such wonderful characteristics as bright green or nearly black colors, odd shapes and absolutely delicious and unusual flavors.

This year, we have decided to grow several varieties of Heirloom Tomatoes from seed. Although our supply of these starter plants is limited, we still have some great varieties in stock today.

Try our delicious Black Krim tomatoes or pick up your own 'Yellow Peach', 'Green Zebra' or 'Black Cherry' Heirloom tomato plants, give them a try and tell us what you think!

And don't miss these recipe suggestions... Click HERE to reprint "Four Simple Tomato Dishes".

Pictured here: Charred Tomatoes and Heirloom Tomato Salad.

Article excerpts courtesy of Martha Stewart Magazine, March 2010

Tillandsia plants

2010-04-21T15:01:00.000-06:00

Attractive and unusual, Tillandsias are members of the pineapple (Bromeliad) family.

Also known as "Air Plants", Tillandsias require similar conditions to their native Latin American environment. This includes bright, filtered light and thorough waterings 2-3 times per week. However, similar to orchids, Tillandsia's must not be left in standing water and they do their best when provided with excellent air flow.

Tillandsia's can be planted in very porous, open containers and even unusual or whimsical places such as the ones our design team has come up with here;

Can you think of somewhere you'd like to have a Tillandsia?